Lightweight Flywheels.. question on streetability
Lightweight Flywheels.. question on streetability
i did a search on the forum about this topic and saw that alot of people agree with the fact that a lightweight flywheel is better suited for road racing and autocross. aluminum flywheel i should say.
but how does it feel to drive with one? does clutch engagment stay smooth or roughen up? is it harder to move off a dead stop because of the less rotating mass?
overall does ride comfort change?
thanks guys
but how does it feel to drive with one? does clutch engagment stay smooth or roughen up? is it harder to move off a dead stop because of the less rotating mass?
overall does ride comfort change?
thanks guys
The idea is correct, a lightweight flywheel is better suited for road racing.
I can't tell you how does one "feel", but it is definiately harder to "move off" from a dead stop.
Once you're off moving, it should be even more streetable than the stocker, because you can accelerate faster, the engine revs faster without that extra rotating mass.
One thing though: If you have a miss, or a hesitation, it will be more noticable with an aluminum fw, bc the lack of rotating (dampening) mass.
I can't tell you how does one "feel", but it is definiately harder to "move off" from a dead stop.
Once you're off moving, it should be even more streetable than the stocker, because you can accelerate faster, the engine revs faster without that extra rotating mass.
One thing though: If you have a miss, or a hesitation, it will be more noticable with an aluminum fw, bc the lack of rotating (dampening) mass.
A lw flywheel will definitely provide a performance improvement on the street. At the track it may be a different story. The key is not going overboard on the weight reduction. I would expect street drivablility problems is you use a fw that is 10+lbs less than the oem.
Regarding my experience with the SLP billet steel f/w, p/p and clutch, I can say that I'm exceptionally pleased. The engine spins to it’s redline much quicker. I frankly can’t distinguish how much the clutch package has improved the SOTP feel because the 3.73 gears were done at the same time. We weighed the old vs. new package and found an 8lb-weight reduction. The combo is great!!!!
The PP has .75" approx beveled holes on the plate surface to reduce weight, and has different shaped "fingers", but same T/O bearing. Maybe the fingers are stronger..dunno?! The F/W is a nice clean billet steel piece. The beefier "fingers" on the P?P and has worked well for me, but I'm not know for doing a lot of 4kRPM hole shots then either.
6th gear is very useable at highway speed. The car accelerates much quicker through the gears. I’ve been told that Herb Adams, a supposed engineering expert, states that for every one lb. of reciprocating mass reduction equals a 15lb. static weight reduction. If he is correct, then imagine the effect on acceleration from dropping between 105 and 120lbs of vehicle weight. Oh, yeah!!!
There is a slight downside to this euphoria. From a stop at idle, one must balance the clutch engagement and throttle a little more carefully to avoid a oh-so-slight shudder when starting out (and this is with 3.73 gears). In other words, this is not the set-up to have if you’re towing a boat. Hahahha. This chnage is not a biggie for me and requires only a slight tradeoff for the performance gain. After a week of driving I quickly adjusted to the set-up. I don't even notice anything now, but you will at first. I would not, however, highly recommend the SLP fw&pp package with 3.42/factory gears. It will work, but these cars need 4.10s or 3.73s and with the SLP even more so. Also, the drag strip guys may warn you that a light clutch may not help your 60' times. But on the street it's fantastic.
Regarding my experience with the SLP billet steel f/w, p/p and clutch, I can say that I'm exceptionally pleased. The engine spins to it’s redline much quicker. I frankly can’t distinguish how much the clutch package has improved the SOTP feel because the 3.73 gears were done at the same time. We weighed the old vs. new package and found an 8lb-weight reduction. The combo is great!!!!
The PP has .75" approx beveled holes on the plate surface to reduce weight, and has different shaped "fingers", but same T/O bearing. Maybe the fingers are stronger..dunno?! The F/W is a nice clean billet steel piece. The beefier "fingers" on the P?P and has worked well for me, but I'm not know for doing a lot of 4kRPM hole shots then either.
6th gear is very useable at highway speed. The car accelerates much quicker through the gears. I’ve been told that Herb Adams, a supposed engineering expert, states that for every one lb. of reciprocating mass reduction equals a 15lb. static weight reduction. If he is correct, then imagine the effect on acceleration from dropping between 105 and 120lbs of vehicle weight. Oh, yeah!!!
There is a slight downside to this euphoria. From a stop at idle, one must balance the clutch engagement and throttle a little more carefully to avoid a oh-so-slight shudder when starting out (and this is with 3.73 gears). In other words, this is not the set-up to have if you’re towing a boat. Hahahha. This chnage is not a biggie for me and requires only a slight tradeoff for the performance gain. After a week of driving I quickly adjusted to the set-up. I don't even notice anything now, but you will at first. I would not, however, highly recommend the SLP fw&pp package with 3.42/factory gears. It will work, but these cars need 4.10s or 3.73s and with the SLP even more so. Also, the drag strip guys may warn you that a light clutch may not help your 60' times. But on the street it's fantastic.
I have an aluminum flywheel with my Street Twin setup, and I really like it. A little higher RPM will solve the slight bogging you might get from an off-idle start.
I can't see any downside to it, in my experience.
I can't see any downside to it, in my experience.
thanks for the feedback.
the reason why i ask those questions is because i'm from NYC and i'm stuck in traffic at least 3 times a day. and very likely to get caught driving on a semi-steep uphill at a slower than 1st gear idle speed. so i'm playing with the gas and clutch like crazy. it;s nothing to do now. but i'm wondering if that would drive me crazy with the LW flywheel.
anyone can tell me how it is rolling backwards up a hill with the LW F. is it a pain? or not that bad with the steel?
thanks again.
the reason why i ask those questions is because i'm from NYC and i'm stuck in traffic at least 3 times a day. and very likely to get caught driving on a semi-steep uphill at a slower than 1st gear idle speed. so i'm playing with the gas and clutch like crazy. it;s nothing to do now. but i'm wondering if that would drive me crazy with the LW flywheel.
anyone can tell me how it is rolling backwards up a hill with the LW F. is it a pain? or not that bad with the steel?
thanks again.
Originally posted by JSK333
I have an aluminum flywheel with my Street Twin setup, and I really like it. A little higher RPM will solve the slight bogging you might get from an off-idle start.
I can't see any downside to it, in my experience.
I have an aluminum flywheel with my Street Twin setup, and I really like it. A little higher RPM will solve the slight bogging you might get from an off-idle start.
I can't see any downside to it, in my experience.
I love how the engine revs up quicker.....
I have the SLP flywheel with a Spec Stage II setup with Kevlar disk. I had a little chatter in the beginning but now most of it is gone.
I like the way it feels. I think it's more drivable now then it was before.
YMMV.
I like the way it feels. I think it's more drivable now then it was before.
YMMV.
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It bolt's right up
