Lightweight FLYWHEELS .... pros/cons?
Lightweight FLYWHEELS .... pros/cons?
I'm just tinkering around and playing with possibilities for the new car. When I swap in my 355 I know I'll replace the clutch, but not sure what to do for the flywheel.
I'm looking for opinions on lighweight flywheels from people who have them, or have in the past.
I've searched the site for info and all I ever hear is "stock/heavy is for drag, light is for auto-x and sucks on the street" but I don't know how much weight to give the comments when they are coming from folks running stock flywheels.
So I'm interested in hearing about the differences in launching/drag-racing your car with one of these flywheels as well as how it differs around town. I suppose I am more interested in the changes that come with running a light flywheel on a daily driver. I don't race (drag or auto-x) and get most of my enjoyment just going out and tearing up some country roads.
Another question might be how light is too light? I'm eyeing the Fidanza 11.5lb unit, but there are several others out that range from there to 15lbs. I wonder how much of a difference that would make?
I'm looking for opinions on lighweight flywheels from people who have them, or have in the past.
I've searched the site for info and all I ever hear is "stock/heavy is for drag, light is for auto-x and sucks on the street" but I don't know how much weight to give the comments when they are coming from folks running stock flywheels.
So I'm interested in hearing about the differences in launching/drag-racing your car with one of these flywheels as well as how it differs around town. I suppose I am more interested in the changes that come with running a light flywheel on a daily driver. I don't race (drag or auto-x) and get most of my enjoyment just going out and tearing up some country roads.
Another question might be how light is too light? I'm eyeing the Fidanza 11.5lb unit, but there are several others out that range from there to 15lbs. I wonder how much of a difference that would make?
I have had a lightweight FW for over three years. Here is a copy of one of my posts on this topic:
Regarding my experience with the SLP billet steel f/w, p/p and clutch, I am exceptionally pleased. The engine spins to it’s redline much quicker. I honestly can’t distinguish how much the clutch package has improved the SOTP feel because the gears were done at the same time. We weighed the old vs. new package and found an 8lb-weight reduction. The combo is great!!!!
6th gear is very useable at highway speed. The car accelerates much quicker through the gears. I’ve been told that Herb Adams, a supposed expert, states that for every one lb. of reciprocating mass reduction equals a 15lb. static weight reduction. If he is correct, then imagine the effect on acceleration from dropping between 105 and 120lbs of vehicle weight. Oh, yeah!!!
There is a slight downside to this euphoria. From a stand still at idle, one must balance the clutch engagement and throttle a little more carefully to avoid a slight shudder when starting out (and this is with 3.73 gears). In other words, this is not the set-up to have if you’re towing a boat. Hahahha. This is not a biggie for me and requires only a slight tradeoff for the performance gain. After a week of driving I’ve adjusted to the set-up. I would not, however, recommend the SLP fw&pp package with 3.42/factory gears.
...additional, I understand that a lightweight FW is easier on the tranny synchros.
Regarding my experience with the SLP billet steel f/w, p/p and clutch, I am exceptionally pleased. The engine spins to it’s redline much quicker. I honestly can’t distinguish how much the clutch package has improved the SOTP feel because the gears were done at the same time. We weighed the old vs. new package and found an 8lb-weight reduction. The combo is great!!!!
6th gear is very useable at highway speed. The car accelerates much quicker through the gears. I’ve been told that Herb Adams, a supposed expert, states that for every one lb. of reciprocating mass reduction equals a 15lb. static weight reduction. If he is correct, then imagine the effect on acceleration from dropping between 105 and 120lbs of vehicle weight. Oh, yeah!!!
There is a slight downside to this euphoria. From a stand still at idle, one must balance the clutch engagement and throttle a little more carefully to avoid a slight shudder when starting out (and this is with 3.73 gears). In other words, this is not the set-up to have if you’re towing a boat. Hahahha. This is not a biggie for me and requires only a slight tradeoff for the performance gain. After a week of driving I’ve adjusted to the set-up. I would not, however, recommend the SLP fw&pp package with 3.42/factory gears.
...additional, I understand that a lightweight FW is easier on the tranny synchros.
I like mine alot, I have a spec stage 3 (6 puck) and their billet flywheel. The RPMs DEFINITLY rise alot quicker, its great. Lightweight flywheels are GREAT for street racing from a roll, or auto-x. But when it comes to drag racing, what i hear is that the rotating mass is kinda good beause it keeps momentum up. This is just what I have heard. I like it, and its night and day between stock and billet. Depends on what you like, Billet is alittle mroe expensive, but I think its worth it.
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