Thats exactly how my setup looks

 

Just out of curiosity? Are you getting the full 1.7 ratio out of that rocker with the valve stem that far to the inside of the rocker tip? Can you post a picture of the rocker with the valve open?

Looks like a really cool and cheap improvement.

 

I'll drive it some this week and pull the covers to check on things. I'll grab another pic for ya then. Keep checking back.

 

Would these work well with hotcam springs? I already have 1.6 pro mags but I have a smaller b body cam and was thinking of going to 1.7 rockers as I dont want to change the cam right now but want more lift. I already have a bigger cam sitting here ready to go in but I like that stock sounding idle it has now and the low rpm power.

 

you need to figure out what your new lift numbers will be with the 1.7s. I believe the LT4 springs are good to .550

 

Sweet! I was wondering about this thread. Did you use a drill press to drill the rockers? Good work, I plan to do this as well.
Also does all that clear the stock valve covers?

 

Is it possible to drill out the hole in the 1.7 rocker and keep the same exact centerline? If not, each rocker is going to have some variance as to alignment.

The pic above shows the stem well under the tip of the rocker. By that pic, geometry looks a bit iffy to me.

It also should be now obvious to all that these are not full roller rockers like some aftermarket ones they might be compared to. They don't have roller tips.

Just some observations.

 

[QUOTE=shoebox;5354835]Is it possible to drill out the hole in the 1.7 rocker and keep the same exact centerline? If not, each rocker is going to have some variance as to alignment.

QUOTE]

Your only drilling the hole a little bit larger the hole that is already there helps pull the drill through.

I drilled mine with a hand air drill with the rocker mounted in a vice. I used PB blaster to cool the bit and brake clean to clean the rocker bearing.

Maybe the geometry isnt right, but it does work. Like I said, been on my car since 2004. My Vert is summer driven and sees the drag strip once in a while.

What is a way to find out about the geometry ?

 

Geometry info

 

on the centerline question...it's not exact and there will be some slight variation. I also used a hand drill but I believe it could have been done better with a drill press. Even with a press you've still got to keep a close eye that the center piece that you're drilling doesn't "rock".

You've got to be overly cautious on cleaning after the drilling. I rinsed, soaped, rinsed, soaped, and braked cleaned, then blew them out with high pressure air. Ended up doing all this twice since I started with going to 3/8 then moving up to 7/16 due to a change in plans.

Geometry....eh, you see the pics. I don't think there's anything that can be done. Hopefully tonight I'll have some time to pull a cover and and take a pic of one with the valve open. EDIT...after reading that article, I see your point shoebox. I'll pickup an adj pushrod this afternoon and see if that will make this that much better.

I'll throw out the disclaimer that this could easily be screwed up if you don't take you time and triple check everything as you go. I would not do this to a new motor either, my motor is already on it's way out and I already have plans for the next one. This is my attempt to squeeze that last little drop before I move on.

I've already spun it past 6500 and am comfortable with the work I've done.

DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK

 

Can one get away with using the stock LT1 springs? I have an auto and wouldn't shift past a custom programmed 6200 shift point.

 

I would not try this on stock springs with any amount of miles on them. They won't support the lift.

 

If you get a set of stock LS1 rocker studs do you still need to drill the rockers? I'd rather not have to do this.

 

LS1 don't use studs, they bolt down and the bolt size is quite small so drilling is required.

 

What about using a helicoil to make it the right size for the original ls1 bolt ?