What would be an ideal oiling setup on a 383 LT4 car? I am in the process of getting my heads ported and getting my short block assembled.
Now I need to turn my attention to a really good oiling system.

What type of pan would be ideal?

What type of windage tray? Is this needed?

What does everyone use for a oil pump? Melling?

Anything else I might need to throw in on my oil system that I am not thinking of?

Thanks

 

i believe many are using stock system without any problems.
Marcin

 

I dont have a 383 but a 355...
I know if i would have went 383 I would have needed an aftermarket oil pan.
The stock oil pan's windage tray barely cleared with ARP's longest 400 block Windage tray studs.. The ones they sent me the first time for a 350 cubic inch did allow me to put the windage tray on and clear the crank and rods.

I'd definately get a 6 quart oiling system if i were buying an aftermarket pan. The aftermarket perforamance pans come with built in baffles and windage trays..
If u decide to go high volume oil pump its even more important to get a 6 quart pan because the high volumes have been known to suck the 5 quart pan dry.

I ended up using a stock GM pump with a high pressure white spring. After some research ive seen this is recommended for most cars not pushing serious power... as in less than 500hp is the impression i got from the oil pump threads.

Get some 3M weather sealant thats used to hold gaskets, plastics, etc. Its at discount auto next to the RTV's and stuff.. I used that as recommended by the machine shop taht built my engine to seal up part of the oil pan.. Its sticky stringy stuff... i put that around the whole oil pan and around the bolt holes.. THen put the oil pan gasket on it, lift up the gasket part way for a second so the Sealant gets exposed to more air and then set the gasket back down on it.. This lets the stuff seal right... Also use some RTV on the center parts of the oil pan when it changes contours. where theres that edge when it turns into a 1/2 circle.

 

Here is going to be my setup:
K&N FIPK
Hooker Longtubes into 3inch True Duals
FULLY ported LT4 heads and intake manifold
Custom ground Cam Motion cam
1.6 Pro Mags 7/16th
Fully built a4 with a SuperYank 3600 stall
383 fully forged bottom end (forged eagle crank and hbeam rods and JE SRP forged pistons)

So I don't know what kind of RWHP something like that will make, but I know down the road (~2 months after the motor is built) that I will be spraying AT LEAST a 200 NX wet shot. SO I am sure the RWHP will be over 500.

Are the Canton pans good? I know they just did a newer model to address some of the leaking problems that users were experiencing.
Are there any alternatives to Canton?
Would a Canton pan (apparently comes with windage tray) and a stock oil pump (new one) be sufficient, or am I definately going to need to step up to a High flow Oil pump?

Thanks again for all your help

 

Yep The stock rep. oil pump with the white spring is perfect.You could do a little work to the pump like put some anti-chatter grooves in it and blend the entrance of the pump and the holes mating in the rear main car, but thats your decision. I used the Milodon diamond screen windage tray and their main studs, a little trimming and massaging is neccessary so with that expect some extra time there for fitament. I used the stock pan , but I would recomend as well a 6 quart pan just for the extra capacity. I also use the med length Wix filter, it has a built in bypass set at a higher pressure than the factorys, allowing you to plug off the factories and still have a bypass.

 

So is Canton all we have to choose from?

 

No Milodon and Morosso both make pans that will fit, as long as the front half of the pan it made like stock it will clear the cross member.

The 1 peice rear main seal pans (86 up) made for 3rd gens will work as well as long as they do not have the side kickout for windage along the pass side of the pan. I am planning on adding the Milodon 6 quart pan soon.

just remember to get the appropriate pick-up for both pump and pan.

 

I'll also add that the Stefs pan for 86 up SBCs will not clear the crossmember.

 

http://www.stockcarracing.com/techar...134_0309_pump/

 

Very nice read.

 

Thanks man, you just supplied me with hopefully a good bathroom read this evening.
Thanks for everyone's help