You could get a way with a racetronix single pump setup on low boost ($300)

60# injectors ($350 used)

tune ($$??)

Be prepared for a stock auto tranny to eventually take a dump or a clutch replacement on a manual.

There are always hidden costs.

 

It also depends on how far you really want to take it what your plans are 1/4 wise etc,

If you never take it to the track things could be a bit different but, with the power your making the stock rear end probably wont like very many launches with sticky tires.
What rpm range do you plan on taking this motor too if you boost it, theres a point where you would need to look into a aftermarket computer setup F.A.S.T Etc if your limited by the factory pcm.

Alot of the added costs would really depend on what your plans are for the car, at the least you need to make sure your not running out of fuel/maxing out your injectors as realquick said before.

 

so its looking like the LE package will be cheaper:/
im not looking to run the motor past 6700rpms cause im too afraid of spinning a bearing (of course i say that now, but it will probably change once its finished
i already have a spec stage 4 so im not too worried about the clutch.

 

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=549742

read the replies there, regardless if for lt1 or ls1 the supporting mod cost is comparable.

 

how about just doing both....whats the worst that could happen?

 

wow... theres alot more supporting mods for FI than i thought... I guess that was just wishful thinking that i could afford it haha. Think im going to go with the LE package and if that doesnt seem like enough i could always spray it since everything is forged.

 

Build it withe the LE3 right now.
Later whent the power bug bites again, either add N20 or go low compression and add a Procharger D1sc kit.

It will perform the best with BOTH!

 

The stock crank will be fine, with my old le3/nitrous setup I had about 850-875 crank HP and it was still going strong. That same crank is now in my turbo setup and I'm sure will get pushed hard again.

I've ran several heads/cam setups from Lloyd, and also built a few local cars with lloyd's heads/cam. My last setup was a 355, stock crank, eagle rods, wiseco pistons, le3 cam, le3 heads, full bolt ons, th400, 4000 stall, and a HEFTY shot via 2 stages and a stand alone fuel system.(I sold over $2,500 in just nitrous parts when I sold it)

My current setup is a 355, stock crank, eagle rods, wiseco pistons, with STOCK heads/cam, stock intake, stock tb, RealQuick's hot parts, T76, FMIC, all cold side built by me. 6lbs and 15 degrees of timing is VERY VERY conservative right now, and it's just as fast as my le3 setup was off the bottle.

I will say this though, I have a lot of room to grow with the turbo, plus driving it with the turbo setup is A LOT more fun. I say if your building the shortblock, go with a turbo or blower now, you can always add to it later.

The ONLY way your going to go faster with the le3 setup is if you decide to spray it, which works great, but gets expensive quick to do RIGHT.

Are you doing all the work yourself? Capable of tuning it? Understand about ALL the little parts you will need when building the le3 setup also?

Here's a vid of my old le3/nitrous setup and my turbo setup...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DPlEGO4E_o

http://media.putfile.com/new-setup

Here is a non edited vid of the first weekend I had the car out with the turbo setup..

http://media.putfile.com/raw-new-oct-racing-3

That's a tubbed out 68 camaro with a nasty sbc, then a heads/cam/th400 ls1.

 

Forged internals now with the LE3 package...

N20 later for a quick boost? Cheaper down the road and work well with the upgraded heads and cam.

Just another possibility...the forged internals will support N20 well PLUS nitrous loves the high compression which you have already accounted for. Maybe Brett or Lloyd will set up up with a nitrous cam.

My $0.02.

All the myths you heard about nitrous aren't realistic if you have the proper setup like what you are already laying the foundation for.

 

Problem is nitrous isn't as cheap as everyone says to do it correctly, especially if you want to make big power.(800+ crank HP)

 

Why would you tell him to look into vortech? From everything i see there setups are crap compaired to procharger setups. JMHO

 

Plus filling bottles gets old, on 150s you'll get 4-5 passes until you start to slow down. 200s you get 3-4, and then you have to fill the bottle again. Cheapest nitrous around here is $3 a lb. I was going through two bottles a week which is about $50-60 depending on if they emptied my bottles to fill them. Multiply that by 52 weeks in a year, you're looking at 2600-3000 a year in nitrous. Now that's if you race as much as I did, and for me obviously going to a turbo setup is going to pay off in a couple years. BTW my LE2 package is up for sale

 

Vortech has been around for years and still make quality stuff. ATI is the new comer, and while making great fbody kits, Vortech probably still owns the market.

 

A blower is not nearly as bolt on and go as most people think...it always needs something

I would go heads and cam...then hit it with some hose