Well.. I didn't break the ever elusive 400rwhp mark. Or the 390rwhp mark... I did squeak past 380rwhp though. 380. something.. and 360. something rwtq.

Beginning w/ my intial tune, from my old homeported heads - to the time I left ~ after playing w/ timing and fuel. I picked up about 5rwhp across the band and 10rwtq. Not all hope is lost though. w/ these heads my hp pleteau's @ 5800 rpms, and hold fairly flat and steady until 6600.

Looks like I need more dyno time, don't we all? , and might as well let a little nitrous leak into my throttle body .

 

380rwhp is nothing to sneeze at Shawn. Pretty sweet.

 

Excellent. Just wait until you get that new 12 bolt in that beotch. See you Tuesday.

 

Michael - aaatchoooo! Still not what I was hoping for. Not at all . But, I can't find my old dyno sheets from the same shop to try and turn my frown upside-down. I do have the first dyno w/ the LE2 and my old heads.. Made 363/340. But I did some changes after that. Just getting awful tiresome after swapping cams in search of more power.. And now a headswap. Both are proven products. Just turn to crap on my car. LOL. These heads made 420 w/ a baby cam ~ so they perform.. Oh well.. In actual conditions my hoopty is putting down over 400rw since it's cool out.


Matt... looking like a 9 inch now.. so.. Hello 350rwhp! LMAO ~ all depends on how drunk I get, and how much money I end up blowing in Vegas. I did post my KTRE up for sale though.

I need a small SR cam now. Cam swap #1 for 2005! lol.

 

Did you double-check the conditions the dyno used for the correction factor? I always do. Sensors can go bad, etc.

 

was it a dynojet or a mustang dyno, or that other brand?

either way....dont get discouraged, remember dyno numbers are just a guide.......track times tell the tale.

what duration/lift is the cam you have?

 

What are the specs of the LE2 cam or is that kinda info still tight lipped?

 

What are you full mods list.?Is your car an a4 or m6.
I was wondering what I could get with the following in my a4 vert..
le 2 heads,comp 305,mac headers,CAI,1.6 rockers,asp underdrive balancer,ls1 driveshaft,58 tb,30 pound injectors,magnalflow catback,cutout.Do you guys think I could hit
350rwhp with the above or has anyone done even better?
Is it worth it to go from say le1 heads to le2 heads.Or are afr much better?
I am not into going crazier on my cam either.And don't want longtubes the macs are good enough for me.

 

It's a dynojet. 248C I think?

I'm not too worried about the dyno numbers as I've run a 12.5@111mph w/ only 315rwhp, so the car never has dynoed very well. That was at full weight also (spare and jak removed). 3540#'s . The car's 150# heavier now, but w/ an additional 65rwhp. Hope to crack the high 11's.. If not... Then time for a diet I was only kidding about the small solid roller. Next cam swap is going to include the shortblock along w/ it .

The LE2 I have is the original spec Joe O. / LE Spec. 234/242 ~.56x/~.57x lift. 110+0 . It's drivability is great, plenty of low end punch even.

 

Shawn

This is your old buddy Denny…….. Having a flat power band is much more important that hitting some number on a peaky slope. Tunings not that hard these days with everyone having a wideband O2 on their dyno, but to really fine tune you need to check the little things like valve lash to even taking a peak at your throttle body to make sure it’s open 100%. If you need help tuning, I’m more than glad to pitch in. I’m sure your using Hausers dyno.

An honest 380 something rwhp with a flat power band really is a pretty quick car.

 

FWIW Shawn:

With that much duration in a stock block I'd expect the power to peak a little higher even with the 110 lobe seperation. My old SS with a 230/244 -112 306 cam peaked at 6300 rpm.

Double check your lash to make sure it's around 1/8th turn and that your not getting any blowby as I'd really expect peak power to be higher than 5800 rpm. I'd e-mail Lloyd and see what he says also.

 

Hey Denny... It hits peak hp @ 5800.... But then holds it to nearly 6600 rpms. Nice and flat. I need to spend a little more time playing w/ the tune up top, since it used to peak out @ 6200, and nosedive right after that.... It's real finicky to A/F adjustments. Gonna try a little more timing up top and see if I can make it peak out a little later.

I'll grab my dyno sheet and email it to ya here in a while.

Did you ever get those TF heads? I wanna see how those suckers perform

<- has a track date @ the 'plex on 3/4 .

 

Hmm... weird, definetly check the little things and things like valve lash etc... my car with 11.8 A/F (couldn't tune since the header gasket blew) put the numbers in the sig with LE2 heads and LE3 cam.

 

Powerband is everything and if you’re making 380 flat across the board, you’re going to do rather well. Again…..if you need some help tuning, I’m more than glad to do what I can.

In regards to timing: I’ve found it easiest to have your knock sensors activated and simply scan it on the dyno. I prefer a Tech II. It’s a combination of how much it likes w/o getting any knock retard. Throw a couple of degrees at it across the board to see what happens and titrate it accordingly. My experience has been getting your fuel/air right always makes the biggest difference and that’s what I would work on first and not even touch the timing until its dead nuts on.

Got the Trick Flow heads and I wanna see how they perform also. Right now they are flowing in the low 290 range @.600 and 246@ .400 which is pretty good, but not what I’m looking for. After about 4 years of semi-retirement from the racing scene, I’m coming back with blood in my eyes.

They are currently in the second round of porting and am going from a 2.05 intake valve to a 2.08 intake and 1.625 exhaust with a 220cc intake port volume. Having everything thermal coated including the tops of the pistons and bottom of my intake to see how that works out. Going for a third round of porting on my intake manifold and it’s getting pretty darn thin in places.

Currently stressing out over the camshaft. As you know, I change camshafts about as often as most people change underwear. For the most part feel I’ve got a pretty good handle on what works. However, this larger port volume and larger valves throws a monkey wrench in that I’m not used to.

Oh well…. Time to dig out the cam cards, flow sheets, dyno sheets and stress a little more.

 

Bunker.. I fattened the curve up to 12.5:1 across the board, it lost hp/tq. In fact on my preliminary dyno w/ my old heads, as soon as the a/f goes rich ~ the power drops like a rock.

Denny, I was using a datamaster and was recording my knock counts . The first run the counts were going crazy. I started pulling back timing across the board and the car started making more power. I just pulled back too much up top I think.. Like I said, I really need to get back up there and tweak on it some more. But, I'm happy w/ the improvements it's made overall . I've got the a/f dead nuts flat @ 13:1 . Sending you a copy of the graph now.

Sounds like you got some work ahead of you . You're still gonna stay hydraulic right? I know what you mean about cams. I went through about 3 myself last year.