Last night a buddy (zx1216) came over to give me a hand tying up a few loose ends on my car last night and we got it running on the first attempt after about 20 seconds of cranking to bring up the oil pressure.

Right now the throttle set screw needs adjusting because it was trying to idle at about 500rpm....sounded nice with open headers I didn't do much with it since it was 9:30pm and I live in a neighborhood with lots of old people and kids. Oil pressure looks great, about 60-70psi at cold idle and it sounds like I damn near nailed the valve lash using the EOIC method.

I'm out of town on business until mid of next week but then I can finish things up like coolant and bleeding the brakes, but I am hoping to take it for a drive either late next week or early the next.

Basic cam specs are 23x/24x .6xx/.6xx on a 10x and no I'm not giving out further details.

The basic new mods are:
Bauer Racing Engines LT1 Super Vic
Wilson 90mm throttle body with LT1 throttle cam
Wilson 90mm elbow
Bauer Racing Engines custom HR cam
Canton oil pan
26918 beehives
QA1 R's and 275# springs on the front
QA1 12-way on the rear
PA k-member and a-arms
Racetronix PnP
-6AN fuel lines from the stock hardlines forward
-6AN steam pipe
SJM AC/PS delete

 

Sounds like a great setup. Should be a blast.

Did you put the -6AN steampipe together?
If so can you give us the part numbers for the setup.

 

should be a pretty nasty set up.

Lloyd

 

I used all Aeroquip stuff since that is what the local speed shop stocks.
(5) - FBM1012 Straight, -6AN hose to -6AN female swivel fittings
(2) - FCM2004 90 Degree, -6 AN Male to 1/4 in. NPT Male adaptors
(1) - FBM2062 Adapter, Union Tee -6 AN Male
(1) - FCM1002 Hose End -6AN
6 feet of -6AN stainless braided hose
Teflon tape

I saw in other threads that people thought it was 1/2" straight thread on the back of the heads, but I used the 1/4"NPT and it certainly seemed like the right size.

Basic install proceedure:
Remove stock lines
Loosen oil pressure sender until it points toward the firewall
Wrap 1/2" NPT thread with Teflon tape, I did 4 times around per Joe O's suggestion
Put 90* fittings into steam holes in the heads.
Tighten them until the thread starts to seat, then turn so the -6AN end points toward the middle of the motor. The drivers side will need to point below the oil pressure sending unit.
Make a -6AN hose with as little distance between the fittings as possible.
Attach one end to the passenger side head.
Attach the other end to one of the ends of the T-fitting (I put it on the middle one)
Make a -6AN hose long enough to reach from the drivers side head to the T-fitting, I believe it was about 8".
Attach one end to the drivers side head.
Tighten the oil pressure sending unit to verify that the hose goes below it and the electrical connector clears.
Attach the other end to the T-fitting.
Make a -6AN hose with a straight swivel on one end, and a hose clamp on the other that runs from the last opening on the T-fitting to the barb on the radiator. The length of this will vary depending on how you route it. I believe mine was 3.5 feet or so, but it could be 4.5 or more depending on where you put it.

 

Thanks a ton.

 

Updated the -6AN steam pipe list with part numbers and corrected an error.

I did a little research and found the following:

1/4" NPT has 18 threads per inch, with a 75% predrill size of 7/16" (.4375")
3/8" NPT has 18 threads per inch, with a 75% predrill size of 37/64" (.5781")
1/2"-20 has 20 threads per inch, with a 75% predrill size of 29/64" (.4531")

Based upon that, and knowing that its 1/2"-20 straight thread in the head, it looks like the 1/4" NPT is the best fit in repect to minor diameter and thread count. I haven't run mine with coolant in it yet, but I will update if I have any leaks. I really doubt that I will because they sure seemed to fit well in the thread and tighten down nicely.

 

Chris,

I just did a fuel system layout last night for this, except I have to do one that doesn't have the return coming out the front of the rails due to the TB location. Which if I get the elbow done for the 58mm/monoblades it will have the same issue so I needed to know this exact setup.

To adapt the lines to the rails look at the EAR-820166ERL fittings. It's a 3/8 NPT to -6AN hose so it will plug right into the rails. I'm also a fan of Y-Blocks over t-fittings to run the rails in parallel, and the best y-block I have found is the MRF-MP-6266. When everything comes in I will run all the lines and take a pic so you can see what I did. Only thing is this stuff ain't cheap to do it right!

FWIW I measured those plugs in the heads yesterday and the 1/2 20 is the only thing I could find close! 1/2-13 was not it and neither was 1/4 NPT, but I might check the metric 13mm sizes today.

Bret

 

does anyone know where I can get these fittings for less than 6$ a piece?

 

AN stuff is never cheap.... some of the fittings are $20+ each.

Bret

 

yeah i know, i was just checking to see if anyone had any cheapER sources.

 

Sounds like a cool setup. Are you running LE2 LT1 heads on this?

 

Yeah... I have a straight and a tappered NPT, it is a machine shop. Neither one of them fits in there well at least on the TFS heads.

 

I realize its not the exact fit, but it did fit very nicely and a 5 degree taper over the .300 worth of thread there isn't going to make any difference. Since this is such a big deal, you better tell Joe Overton, since he does it the same way.
Bret,

I was laying out the fittings needed for the steam pipe. My fuel system is run in parallel using a y-block that I made and the Aeromotive 13109 fpr. I used the 3/8 NPT to -6AN on each end of my rails, then standard -AN stuff to the y-block with more 3/8 NPT to -6 stuff. I also put a 1/8 NPT port in the y-block for my fuel pressure gage.

 

I put the 1/8 NPT in the end of one of the rails that was out of the way for the guage, since I'm doing the return out of the center of the rails due to space constraints. The setup I designed it around was a 13109 also.

Bret

 

Yup, and it was written from the perspective of someone just wanting to swap the parts out, kind of hard to tap the back of a head in the car.