*Le2 Heads (with Ferrea valves, beehives, gmpp guideplates and 7/16 arp studs)
*Custom grind LE2 cam
*LE ported intake manifold
*Comp Chromemoly 7.150 pushrods
*Comp Pro Mag 1.6 NSA Roller Rockers w/ 7/16" stud hole
-Modded Valvecovers for the roller rockers
*Morel Lifters
*Metziere Electric Waterpump Conversion
*SRP Flat top Forged Pistons -5cc , .030 over (11.8 compression? Pump gas? ) 419 grams
-perfect circle rings
*Eagle 4330 Forged Crank balanced on a Hines w/ 1 peice seal (3.750", 5.7" min. rod length, internal balanced) 1875 bobweight
-balanced with the flywheel , so balanced flywheel
*Eagle SIR I beam forged lightweight rods w/ press fit pin (6" length) 595 grams
*42lb ford racing injectors
*AS&M 58mm throttle body
*M55 oil pump and pickup tube
*KN cai
*200amp alternator
*Vortech Elbow
*ZEX lt1 125 shot of n20
*Walbro 255lph fuel pump
*Edelbrock shorties
*y-pipe to a custom 3" Flowmaster catback and single cat
*New Poly engine/tranny/torque arm mounts
*New stainless engine bolt kit
*Full Felpro Gasket set
-Head gasket by GMPP for the impala heads
*Underdrive pulley setup for alt/crank
*Stock replacement Opti cap and rotor

I still need to get this stuff before I go to get the block worked on :

Clevite Main Bearings
Clevite Rod Bearings
Clevite Cam Bearings
ARP Main Studs
ARP head bolts
Accel 8.8 Plug Wires
New Plugs



I will get it fully dyno/wideband tuned after its together. Am I missing anything/ will these parts all work together? How about a high torque starter or a tighter steering box? Thanks ---

 

"*Eagle SIR I beam forged lightweight rods w/ press fit pin"

you might be pushing these rods to their limit, if I was going to spend a ton of money on an engine, which I already have done, I would want to make the bottom end as strong as possible. I don't have as much experience as some other guys on here, but thats my opinion.

 

If it comes down to a budget I would down grade from the Morels or the AS&M Throttle body and upgrade the rods to an H-Beam. But everything else looks good.

 

Everything looks good but I would get some 1 3/4 LT headers or at least some 1 3/4 Mid Length headers instead of the Edelbrocks. You are wasting an EASY 20 HP by using the Edelbrocks.

Lloyd

 

I would run bushed rods, I personally don't think you are going to out RPM and power those rods. I would run a 6.0" rod to help get piston mass down, which will help the life of the rods, just don't spray them. The 11.8:1 will be perfect for that setup.

Bret

 

Those rods are recommended UP TO 500hp and I guess I will be at the limit n/a (probably around 470hp)!!! Thanks for the advice guys---

*Bret, When you get bushed you can use floating pins right? What is the advantage to that over the pressed pins? Thanks

*Lloyd, thanks for the header advice.....20hp is alot!!! My shop in town said they can hook me up with a new TRUE dual setup w/o cats. I guess I will be heading down that road now, with some lt's . I just need it to pass inspection still, haha ---

*Thanks Eric. You have been alot of help too, looks like I will be going h-beam so I can still use the spray. ---

*Sleeper Mullet, thanks for the advice too bro. I see you are using a msd coil and ignition box. Should I get something like that to upgrade my ignition setup or should I be fine with the stock setup??? ---

I have a 2 pod gauge setup for the a pillar, what are the two most important things I should be keeping an eye on? ( what 2 gauges do you recommend I get ) ? Thanks again to all of you, I am 95% sure I am swapping rods now, to bushed h's ,lol.

Are the Eagle 3d Stroker 4340 H-Beams good enough??? Up to 700hp and 8000rpm, and bronze bushed. Then I can run the 125 n20 and be fine right? ---

 

Oil pressure for sure, and im not sure what else. Maybe engine heat? Get digital guages. Im doing a custom array of guages in the cassette-holder spot

 

I don't care for the poly mounts. They transmit too much vibration to the car. As far as guages, if I had to pick two, I'd put in something that's not already on the dash. Fuel pressure and vacuum. I actually have three other guages, two in the cassette holder--oil temp and water temp. And an oil press. guage on the pillar with vacuum/boost and fuel pressure.

 

I have solid mounts on my 67 so I am used to a little vibration ---

* I also tend to think about gauges that are NOT in the dash. How accurate are those A/F ratio digital gauges so I know I am in tune all the time??? Fuel Pressure sounds good too, or maybe nitrous pressure if I cant get the bottle mounted in eye sight (for the gauge on the bottle)? Thanks guys---

 

How are the Pacesetter Long Tube Headers? Should I get the offroad ones or the ones with the egr/air attachments? I have the obd2 and in Missouri they just plug in the dash and you pass or you dont depending on the codes you throw. If I get a computer tune will the air/egr pass when they are turned off or just say NOT READY? Thanks ---

 

I live in MO too...I have the offroad ones, and $20 got me the $12 safety inspection and they didn't even bother plugging anything in. Are you in STL or on the KC side? I'm guessing STL...

 

Yeah , STL side. When do the new laws come in effect where my car wont need emissions testing? ---

 

I had an Autometer A/F ratio guage, hooked to one of the O2 sensors, for awhile. Its a good light show but to me it wasn't much more useful than that.

 

Thanks Joe, I heard the same thing before, lol ... but are they accurate?

Why did it not do its job....does the engine always stay in tune on its own? ---