Should I automaticaly put LCA and relocation brackets when i lower my car. Im not lowering it low at all its just a slight drop. Im using a set of Decarbon front shocks and KYB in the rear. Any input would be great thanks.

 

I am also not "slamming" my car. I will be putting springs on similar to the Eibach "pro kit". FWIW I am going to wait to do the LCA relocation brackets until I have more money and run out of things to do. I belive the pinion angle wont change more than a degree or two (which your car will see more than that from launching hard).

 

I am about to set my car down about 1.75". Do you reccommend the LCA brackets, I bought them just in case I do need them. I figured if I was going to drop it that much I should get them, do I really even need them?

 

I have the ProKit with boxed rear lower control arms in the stock location. The car behaves fine and does well autocrossing. As I understand it, a lowered car without the relocation brackets will loose some straight-line traction. This could negatively effect your time at a drag strip or a street race (I'm sure no one here cares about the last bit.) As far as normal driving, canyon carving and autocross you should have little need for relocation brackets. However, I have some, which I will be installing soon. If the money isn't a huge issue then do the relocation brackets. They certainly will not hurt. Other wise you probably don't need them unless you’re mostly into drag racing.

JeffA

 

relocation brackets will help you gain traction after lowering your car.


so you dont NEED to do it..........but you will get better traction if you do.

 

Thats what i was figuring is that hurt launch traction. Since i pretty much use the car for Drag and daily use, ill be putting the LCA's and brackets on. BMR fabrication brand.

 

Heres my story.
I put the Eibach Prokit on to lose the big gap between the tires and the body. Also wanted better handling. This did both but screwed up my weight transfer. I could smoke the tires at will.
One time pulled a 150 FT. burn out thru first and second gear on crappy, cold pavement. Great for impressing your buddys but bad when it comes to et's.
So lately I've been trying to fix this problem. Last year I had the relocation brackets put on,used the lowest setting and that was no help. But at the same time a VIG 2800 went in so I could see why.
This year bought some Nitto's and that did'nt help. All though people have said they get better after a couple hundred miles are on them. Even took the front sway bar off and noticed no improvement. Man these Eibachs are stiff.
The only thing that helped was putting a Spohn adjustable TA on. This was by far the best thing I did to help the traction. The car now has some anti-squat and plants the tires. I really believe the correct pinion angle is where its at when your trying to help your traction. You need to have a total package and in my case the TA is what brought it all together.
On a side note, ignore the times in my sig, the car has issues that will soon be resolved.

 

Hi All,

I just added the Spohn relocation brackets and will test them on Friday. When I had my 2.73 rear gear I could get a dead hook most of the time. Since changing to a 3.73 I cannot hook at all. I am hoping the brackets save me from learning how to launch. It is much simpler to floor it.

 

Technically speaking, the adj LCA will allow you to adjust the "Instant Center" on your car. When you lower it without relocating the LCA attachment point, you move the IC way out in front of the car, and lose weight transfer to the rear upon acceleration. For you autocrossers, having the IC moved from stock location will affect how the car handles when braking also. Using the adj LCA's, you can bring the IC back into the stock location, and even adj for a more rearward IC, for more bite on launch.

 

I waited after installing the Eibach/Bilsteins, but just ordered the BMR brackets...I got massive wheel hop after lowering the car. I'm running 17x11's with 315's so I probably get a bit more traction than most, but for $70 + welding, you might as well just do it.

 

SSkindog,
Are you talking about adjustable LCA's or relocation brackets when referring to changing the IC. Just trying to get a handle on your point. Not a flame.

 

I am referring to the brackets you weld onto the live axle, that give you more than one LCA rear mounting hole choice. I wish I had adj LCA's on my car, because I find that as you move the LCA mounting point, you change the axle position in relation to the wheelwell, driveshaft/tranny engagement, and torque arm. Not much, but it does move it some.

 

SSkindog
I really do'nt think thats the case with the relocation brackets. If you look at the brackets, the lowest setting is toward the front of the car to compensate for the arc of the control arm as you swing it down. If you look at a stock TA how would get the correct pinion angle back if you did'nt have an adjustable one with a lowered car?

 

On a lowered vechicle there is a noticable difference when installing the relocation brackets. When I installed my BMR weld-in ones I could feel the difference. I wish I had a time slip to show the difference but I have heard from other that they will take off a few tenth on your timeslip. A very wise investment IMO.

 

My brackets werent set up that way, the holes are in line with each other Would be wise to choose brackets like yours, that have the holes set to compensate.
Luckily, I have an adj torque arm, and use that to set pinion angle.