I had to reroute and replace a section of my O2 sensor wiring that was burned up by my passanger side header. I put in a 4 foot extension for the O2 wiring only. The CPS wiring was also a little fried but since I have the CPS programmed out I didn't bother doing anything to it. I basically ran the longer O2 sensor wires along the firewall and it's now clear of the headers. The engine ground wire, CPS wires, starter and knock sensor wires were rewrapped in heat tap and two layers of DEI high temperature tubing and returned to their stock position which was very close to the header. My problem is that my car is having a difficult time starting. My question is would faulty O2 wiring or knock sensor wiring cause the car to not start? It started just fine before I performed my wiring work.

 

ttt

 

No either wiring even if completely cut would not cause a starting issue. It would, however cause a SES light to set. Even if the reference line were touching ground, the SES would come on. Sounds like you're having a coincidental problem unrelated to the work you did.

The next time you start the engine, put the KOEO for 2 or 3 seconds. Then turn the key off for a second or 2 then cycle KOEO and do that for 5 or 6 times. On the last time, crank it over and start the engine. If it starts quickly, the fuel is draining away from the fuel rails.

 

I took you advice but it still does not start. It turns over but it doesn't even sound like it's going to start. I'm 99% sure I did not do anything to the ground wire or the wire going to the starter. Those wires were not damaged in any way. If there was a problem with either the ground or the starter wire would the car even turn over? Like I said before it'll turn over all day long but it doesn't even come close to firing up. I'm really confused . The only other wire I disconnected was one of the spark plug wires to test fit a fire proof sleeve on the wire. I double checked the wiring and I'm pretty sure it's been properly installed on the plug. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Check to see if you have fuel pressure. Its best to bleed off the fuel pressure at the schrader valve. If you have a gage, nows the time to use it. If you don't, cycle power as I mentioned before 5 or 6 times then press the schrader valve again.

 

Well I purchased a fuel pressure tester and I'm getting 42lbs and it does not bleed off so I think I'm good on the fuel side. I now need to check if I have spark. What's the best way to check for spark?

 

We'll I discovered that I have gas in my oil or at least I believe so. It very runny and it has a strong smell. Could this be because I have cranked the car so much trying to get it to start that the fuel is unburned and draining to the oil pan.

 

I think you mean gas in your oil don't you?

Well it could be from cranking so much. If you crank too much at any one time, like for more than 10 seconds, you risk burning up your starter. Don't keep cranking it unless you are actually testing something. Like the presence of spark.

I think you have to back up and regroup. You can eliminate fuel being the problem for now. You should concentrate on a spark issue. Think what else you may have done that could have created a spark problem.

I assume that it ran fine until you burned up the wires against your headers.???

 

You are correct. It was from sniffin' all that gas that was in my oil. I figure I need to change the oil and then test for spark. My car was running fine until one day the exhaust was popping alot. So much that I decided I should stop driving it. I figured it was due to the burnt O2 wires along the passenger side header. I had the negative battery cable disconnected when I lengthened the O2 wiring harness. I also had to disconnect the CPS connector, knock sensor wire, one wire from the starter and the CPU ground wire in order to gain easy access to the entire harness. I know that anything is possible but do you think I fried the PCM or somehow jacked up the CPU ground wire while trying to solder on the extensions? Should I have completely diconnected the battery and/or the CPU prior to soldering. I have disconnected and connected the ground wire several times because I thought that it might be the cause but it's clean and tight. How can you test a CPU to check if it's bad?

 

change your oil, then check your fuses, then check for spark

 

UPDATE: I finally had some time this weekend to work on my car. I changed the oil and my car miraculously started right up. Would gas in the oil prevent the car from starting? Anyway I was very happy that it started. I took it for a test drive and quickly realized that all my problems were not solved. It was popping and backfiring like it had when I first burnt up my O2 wiring. I thought I would change the plugs before I completely gave up and took it to a performance shop. The Haynes Manual said to gap them at .035 The TR55's I had in there before were gapped at .050 I decided to gap the new TR55's at .035 The car started up and I took it for a 10 minute test drive. No backfiring or popping. I can't wait for some nicer weather because once I verify that my engine demons have been conqured I'm getting a stall converter.

 

No but you could spin a bearing.

 

The .035 gap is what I have been preaching on this board for two years. It takes the load off of the opti and doesn't cause the spark to go back into it if the plugs don't fire with the wide gap. Quite a few of the "mysterious" problems guys have are caused by the .050-.060 gap and the exotic metal in the "trick" plugs.
Tell everybody your experience so they will see it's not bull.

 

Just curious, but isn't stock gap .050? How did all the cars run good for years on that gap, but now they are having issues?

 

Tell ya what ya do. Replace everything that has to do with the ignition and it will run good. when it get's older it don't.(Don't tell me about grandmas car with 100,000+ on it it's never been modified)
Stock cars that have never been modified work well and they don't have replacement parts that are WRONG.


How did cars in the '60 ever run without .050 gap. daaaa