Well we started last Wednesday and I just fired her up about 15 minutes ago. Wednesday, Thursday and Friday we worked only about 4 hours each day and didn't continue the install till yesterday. Because this was our first header install my friend and I have ever done, I would say more experienced guys with all the right tools could have done it MUCH quicker. We were not able to lift the car high enough off the ground, so BOTH headers were installed from the TOP. The alternator, starter, steering knuckles, and the passenger motor mount itself all had to be removed. The biggest problem we had was finding a spot to lift the motor with a jack. One part that stands out was probably having to release all the R134A so we could move the A/C lines to allow enough play for the headers to squeeze in...that and actually having to remove the motor mount itself from the engine block Plug access looks good, ground clearance is better than I thought it would be, the header's definently look sweet in there, and it sounds like a f*cking monster with open headers Overall the install was not difficult...just VERY tedious having to remove one thing after another.

Some issues I am having right now is that the
-EGR valves/tubes are threaded on the outside and so are the header hookups. Need to find an adapter or just have the EGR tube cut then welded to the headers.
-Need O2 extension for passenger side (my fault...forgot to order one)
-Looks as if the Kook's Y-pipe itself have an extra set of O2 bungs...already have 2 bungs on the headers themselves (obviously) so I need to get these holes plugged/welded up.
-Had to buy a Coolant Temperature Sending Unit..tried to put the driver side header in and didn't even see the bastard till we heard it break ($11 from autozone)

PICS WILL BE UP SHORTLY

 

^ i read somewhere where spark plugs from older SBC's will fit 02's sensor bungs?

 

Thats correct.

 

Why wouldnt you just get a plug? A spark plug hanging out of my O2 bung is nothing i want to look at personally. Just my thought

Brandon

 

If you plan on keeping your A/C I would suggest recharging it. Letting out everything could let contaminants in, and will mess things up in no time.

 

I hear ya. Just go to Home Depot or Lowes and get pipe plugs for about $1.00 each.

 

Yes, but when you go there know the size and thread pattern you need. I dont know off hand but im sure someone on this board does.

Brandon

 

Don't weld those bungs shut. Just plug them. They'll come in handy if you ever dyno the car with a wideband.

 

We actually went to Autozone and Home Depot to look for plugs but found nothing. We found out that a 1/2" plug would fit, but they didn't have the correct size threading. Gonna take my car to a speedshop today so hopefully everything will get taken care of one way or another..

 

Ok, I was wrong - it's not NPT it's metric.

You can use a short M18 bolt or a M18 spark plug. If a local bolt house doesnt have the bolt, you can use a spark plug. Come to think of it, it wouldnt look bad at all if you brake the porcelan (sp) off at the base of the plug.

 

Napa has them. I believe they are a BMW oil pan drain plugs. I paid ~7.00 a piece.

 

M18. Just took them off my friend's car no more than 5 minutes ago.

-J

 

Ok, took it down to a muffler shop and had the y-pipe welded up. They had old O2 sensors laying around so they plugged the ypipe up with those. I'm still having a tough time trying to get the EGR valve hooked up to the headers. The EGR tube and the header hookups are both threaded on the outside. I've tried autozone, checker, and home depot but nobody has an adapter. Anybody have an idea of how I can get this **** hooked up?

 

give nick a call at kooks.
-b

 

Ok here are some pics of the headers and y-pipe installed..