I have knock retard right off of idle, 1-5 degrees then it immediately goes away after it revs a little. Just had plugs, wires, opti, fuel filter done. Any ideas? Would an LT4KM possible help in this situation? Thanks for any help.

WHen sitting and revving in neutrel it is not nearly as bad, in fact there is 1 degree sometimes, other times nothing.

Also when low in a gear like 1k or a little over in 4th I get 1 degree of knock back and forth from 0. Weird Car runs great otherwise but it stumbles when the knock comes in

 

Sorry to reply to my own post but I was thinking.....

I have 1LE motor and transmission mounts, maybe just one or the other I forgot it was 3 years ago when it was done. COuld that contribute to a false knock reading?

Also my SLP cold air thing was ticking again the break things, you know that little metal piece that sticks out....could that possibly do something?

I am thinking it must be false knock because it never goes over 5 degress and my engine sounds just like it did when I got it at 30k miles (95k now) tick tick tick tick tick tick tick

Thanks for any tips, it really bothers me when my car doesnt work after I dumped so much money into it

 

What octane fuel are you using? Have you looked at the EGR valve?

How and when did you first notice a problem and what was the problem? Was it there before you replaced the ignition parts?

 

I always use 93 octane fuel.

I had huge knock retard before doing the plugs, wires and opti. After I really did not notice any at all until 4k-5k RPMs there was a few degrees still and now I have this low RPM retard while low in gear . Also no I have not checked the EGR valve, I will do some reasearch and figure out how to do that.