was out at the track and buddy of mine hooked up scanner and was getting between 3 and 5 degrees of knock retard. how much is that hurting my performance. going to get an lt4 knock module in 2 days, just wondering how much that's been hurting.

 

???

 

As far as e.t., 5° of retard would have a noticeable effect.

 

Every single LT1 that I have ever scanned has SOME knock retard in it. I have a constant 3-4 degrees in mine. My buddy had 7 when he had his car. I have an LT4 knock module and programming and I still haven't got rid of it. I just throw a gallon of race fuel in it to cure the knock retard.

 

Do a search on the board and get the resistor # and go to Radio Shack and get one to wire inline with your knock retard sender on the block.It is on the passenger's side in front of the starter.
False knock is a problem with header's or RR's.

 

3 degres of knock takes a little over 3.5 seconds to completly be put back in...provided that the engine doesnt pick up any more in the same time.

and by the way someone with tunercat can completely disable the knock. so it can be fix with tuncat, well not fix but by passed.

 

With a tuning tool you can set the maximum knock to .1 i believe, or that is what i have been told.. I have the same problem with false knock on mine. Mine is caused by one of my lifters not pumping up all of the way and my valvetrain is giving off false knock... I am replacing the lifters soon and i HOPE it goes away. It sucks because i have a LT1 scanmaster and i see the false knock ALL the time...


Chris

 

i would not do that unless your absolutly sure its false. and a scan tool will not do it it has to be a editing software.

and also knock comes from a sudden change in manifold absolute pressure. that always occurs between shifts, and is worse on six speeds.

 

Not trying to be funny but if you are curing the knock retard with race gas, it wasn't false. Meaning you might have a problem somewhere unless your timing is just too high.

I desensitized my circuit and don't have any false knock.

 

I know that...that is why I put the race gas in there to find out if it was real or fake. Now, I just run it at the track so that I don't register any.

I think a degree or two of knock retard on these engines is pretty normal. Desensitizing it would be a stupid thing to do unless you think it is cool to melt pistons. I would check to make sure it is real knock or false knock before desensitizing the sensor.

 

not to steal your post but do you have the mac dual cat headers or single cat? if you have the dual cats how do you like them? havent heard much about the dual cat mac's.

 

absolutely right mine did ,then i had it programmed out after determining it was false. and had my tuner increase my timing.

 

I think a degree or two of knock retard on these engines is pretty normal. Desensitizing it would be a stupid thing to do unless you think it is cool to melt pistons. I would check to make sure it is real knock or false knock before desensitizing the sensor.[/QUOTE]

I did basically what people do by buying an LT4 km. Is that a stupid thing to do as well? It was determined to be false knock and was only desensitized enough to cure that through experimentation. Plus the plugs look fine so I am not worried about melting anything