So im looking to get more power out of my LT1 when i get back from Iraq. I dont know a lot but im wanting to get about 350 or a little more to the wheels. So I did a search, and the LE1 package sounds right for me.

So if i where to do this to the car, which is factory stock. I have a Hooker Catback, and an SLP CAI. The car is a 1994 Camaro Z28 A4 2.73 ratio with 33k mi on the clock. How will the 4L60E handle this power? How till the 10 bolt deal with it aswel? What am i going to need to do to the car to properly support this new power? I want to maintain daily driveability.

Yes i did a search also
Thanks

 

Of the LE packages, the LE1 is the most street friendly and really requires the least in terms of required supporting mods.

You'll need to add headers and change out the carrier and step up to at least 3.42 gears on the rear end. Most people will tell you to get a higher stall torque converter for your trans. You may also want to step up to larger fuel injectors as well... And of course you'll need to get it all tuned when you're done.

The good news is you don't have unrealistic expectations of the kind of power you'll put to the tires...

 

FWIW a well done cam only setup can do 350rwhp SAE, not turning you off of the LE1 but depends on how you want to get there.

Bret

 

The 10 bolt rear holds up pretty well in an A4 car, it's the M6's that are tough on rears. Either is fine on street tires, the challenge occurs with sticky tires on a sticky surface.

 

Thanks for the info guys.. So one question i had and probably my biggest concern, but still hasn't been addressed yet... The 4L60E... Will it take this power?
This car, is not going to be used for drag racing much. Maybe a few races here and there. But the car will be more for shows and meets, just overall enjoyment and a little spirited driving here and there . Im to used to the power it has now, and im not satisfied anymore with it. But i dont wanna do a mod to it, that other parts of the car cannot handle.
Also SFC's... Will i they be necessary? Or will i be fine w/o them? Car IS a 94 convertible. Thanks guys

 

On the 4l60e it just depends. My 4l60e had about 15k on it and I put the mods in my sig on the car, Made two passes at the track and blew it to ****. I wasn't redlining are anything. it was shifting where it was supposed to and then pop, crunch crunch. So you might wanna budget to get it built for performance (Steel drums, better clutches and servos etc..)

 

The 4L60E should be able to handle 350 RWHP without much difficulty. Of course, it could also fail with the stock setup at any time... My 94 Z28 convertible has over 150k miles and my trans is still going strong... Like you I've got the 2.73 gears and I usually just cruise around...

As for Subframe connectors, They can help strengthen the frame, but there are only a couple of companies that make them for the 4th gen convertible.

BMR has a proven set of weld in SFC's
UMI just released a set of bolt in connectors. THey say there will be a weld in set available soon and some 3 point connectors by spring.

Any power mods you make will shorten the life of your powertrain. More power=more stress. What you really want to avoid is increasing the power to the point where you're going to break things rather then wear them out.

I don't think your power goal of 350hp will be a problem so long as you do it right.

As stated by Bret above, you can get to the 350 hp range without heads if that's as far as you want to go.

 

I think thats why I blew my tranny. I might have went passed the mark.

 

I would go with the LE1 cam and LE2 heads. Add some more parts, stall gears, headers, etc, and you will be very happy.

 

Thanks for the replies guys. Any other input or advice for me? Like i said i want more power, but i dont want to lose daily drivability, or reliability.

 

You might be happy working w/ some more bolt on's first...headers would be a good start so you can get that thing breathing good...it will depend on what kind of $ you want to spend...if you move up with heads/cam you will more than likely be looking at other upgrades and "extras" such as a new throttle body, injectors, etc...and automatically a tune to make everything come together...I went in for a cam swap...a simple cc305 swap...I now have everything torn down building a forged bottom end >600 lift cam, and a good set of heads.....I could possibly have everything finished by now if it weren't for the "extra" things that go along w/ a build..350 ponies is a good number that you could obtain for pretty reasonable...as Brett said above you can get there w/ a cam and bolt on package and I doubt you'd have to worry much at all about the drivetrain.....when you get home, let me know if you need any help...I'm only about 5 miles from you...

 

You could always get another CPT transmission for it

 

Like they said, you can get 350 rwhp with cam only, but the heads will get you there with a more driveable or smaller cam. Then when you need more, just swap cams.

 

A lot of people are saying i can get the 350 with just a cam, my biggest issue is i dont want a lobby cam. Yeah its cool and all but not for what im doing to the car. (i dont know much about cams so i dont know how bad a 305 is)
Then again theres the thing where i want the car to drive like it was from the factory. A lot of mods will sacrifice that for power..
Ill be getting the hooker mid tubes because they are 50 state legal, and im keeping the cat and my mild hooker muffler in place. Ill probably put an electric cutout somewhere before the cat for when i want to race. But again this car has to remain 50 state emissions legal, maintain its driveability, and make the power safe.

Ill get in touch with you as soon as i get back in town for sure. Thanks GaJoe

And yes i am looking into the idea of getting another CPT transmission. I was very happy with the last rebuild that frank did for me. I learned a lot when taking the trans out and putting the new one in too so this time ill be a little more prepared. Its just coming down to a funding thing at this point. Besides i think my rear main seal may be leaking. Not bad but i think it is... So ill get to replace that too before it becomes an issue down the line.

 

350RWHP through an auto with just a cam swap may be a stretch.

I can tell you this, The LE1 will not quench your thirst for speed. Especially if your putting it in the convertible. That car is heavy.

I would go LE2, most likely you will be glad you did.

WHen it get the ecm burned for the mods, tell them to mod the trans tables to help it live.

Put a GOOD trans cooler on the car, that will go a long way in making the trans last a bit longer. If you do not frequent the track that will help the trans life. Also if you are racing on the freeway and the car is in overdrive, MANUALLY pull the car out of overdrive before you step on it, full throttle down shifts from overdrive are hard on the trans.

Do not skimp on a torque converter, this is the KEY to an auto running well.

For a gear I would go 3.73 in the stock 10 bolt, no lower or the gear might fail(4.10 has a VERY small pinion gear) The stock 10 bolt holds up well in an auto car.


These tidbits are based on what I have read(disclamier he he)

David