I change my steering wheel to a new one,and I don't want to swap any interal steering wheel components. I got a key with new steering wheel. I read a thead about somebody putting an inline resistor to match the original key resistance, but the write up was not very clear to me. I was wondering if somebody who did it could give me a better write up

Myoriginalkey resistance 11850 ohms, new one- 1472 ohms

Maybe anybody knows what part is resposible for reading matching the resistance, I have the entire dash with all parts from the car I got the key, maybe I could change some electricalcomponent so my car will be able to start with new resistance key?


Also, could the locksmith change the little resistance chip so I would not need to wire anything.

Help to get my car running, that's the last thing left to doafter the crash-start the car




Tomas

 

Get an ohm meter and find the resistance of your old key, should be close to something on the chart on page 2 in the link. Go to radio shack and get a resistor or a few that add up to the resistance from the chart that is closest to your key , solder them together with a piece of thin wire on each end and put a piece of heat shrink tubing ofer all of it.

There is a very small pair of 22 gauge wires comming out from the steering column, I believe black and white in an orange casing, there is a plug on them nearby. These are the VATS wires. You will be placing the resistor across these two wires, "connecting them", you could solder, but I used radioshack's telephone tap conectors for small gauge wires, they were clear with a green top. Just slip it over the vats wires and slide in the wire from the resistor and squeeze.

Ill take a pic tomorrow and email it to u if ya need it, but I have a few other things goin on downthere to get a remote start to work with vats. email me tgiannop@stevens.edu or gorilla858 on aim

BTW the computer reads the resistance from the key and if it matches it will let the car start, what this does it let teh computer see the correct resistance at all times. VATS will not work anymore. BTW there is a slight chance thet your old key and new one have the same chip, so it might just work.

http://www.designtech-intl.com/Conte..._06_237_04.pdf

 

Maybe anybody knows what part is resposible for reading matching the resistance, I have the entire dash with all parts from the car I got the key?

My original key resistance was 11850 ohms, and my new key has only 1472 ohms, I guess 5% chanse of getting the same resistance key didn't work out, should have read my horoscope before I measured resistance

convertzm, I am very thankful for the information. This helps a looooot, if you could get me some pictures to samot2@netzero.com , I could take my car for a ride this evening.

 

I wont be able to get u the pics till tomorrow, when I go home for thanksgiving . Sorry man. IM and we can try to figgure it out.

 

convertz, I send you a email

Thanks for helping me. In the manual, that you send link to, it says locate wire running from steering wheel to VATS. What is VATS,how it looks like, and where is it located? I have my steering column down and very good access to everything. I han see two very thin white vires, and a thicker orange wrapped wire. Can you help me to find the right pair of wires. I understand the procedure of installing the resistor very well, just need to locate the wires.

Thanks a lot,
Tomas

 

My 94 manual shows there are only 2 '2 wire' connectors going to the steering column..
One is for airbag[white and dark green wires, and they have a 'lock' on the connector]
One for the VATS ignition key lock cylinder resistance connector...[both white on steering column side of connector[male connector]
On the female side [dash side] of the connector are purple with white tracer [return] white with black tracer [feed]
They go to the 'theft deterrent module[under dash inboard of glove box area]

The key has to match that module...
Can't you just use your old key 'resistance value'[the dealer has a machine that measures that] and get a key cut with the NEW key notches, but OLD KEY resistance value?
Also I find a bit confusing that you post that you used the'entire dash'
One question that comes to mind is:
Are you using the 'old ' theft control module?[if so, above applies, get key cut with new notches but old resistance value]
Or are you using the 'new' theft module?[if this is the case the 'new' key should WORK as is?
Hope this helps some..
Bear in mind that 94 may differ from your year[wire colors]...
but the principles are the same....

ADDED thought

VATS module[ by the glove box that the 2 wires GO to], if replaced with a new one, reads the resistance value of the FIRST key inserted, then cannot be changed reprogrammed after that... the key has to match it...
So again you have to determine if you have your original module or another one, and match the key accordingly[now if you have a 'unknown' module that is USED, and don't have the key that goes to it, it coul;d use any of the available keys[resistance values] so it might be wise to[A] use YOUR OLD module..
[B] buy a NEW module?Then use the NEW key which the module should read, then work OK?
Hope this isnt confusing..

I suspect possibly that you got the DASH from one source? and the ignition from another?[meaning you can't really match the key, or use the resistor method? since you have an unknown' value?]
If the dash, VATS module, ignition switche from same source,it should work with the key that came with it..

 

I'm confused. When you are saying that you will be placing the resistor across these two wires, "connecting them", does this mean putting one end of the resistor on the female side of the plug and the other end to the male side of the plug? Or, connecting both ends of the resistor to the female side of the plug, or male side?

 

Yes, I did get the entire dash and steering wheel from the same donor car (elec87 is a great guy to buy from, he sold me everything I needed). When I got the new dash, all of its wires were cut, so, I kept my old dash wiring. I just changed the SIR module since my airbags deployed. But I do have every single electronic component from the new dash laying in the box. I am gonna try now to find how VATS looks and switch the original VATS with one from the new dash.

I did find two VATS wires already,theyare just two very thin white wires. It shouldn't be hard to connect them with 11800 ohm resistor,and I do have a smoldering tool laying around.

The third option of going to locksmith and burning the key is a bit too late,and I do want to test drive my camaro today.

 

Thanks again everybody for helping. I was in a class for a couple hours, but now I am back to my project. I did find the two VATS wires, with the directions given there was no way of not finding them I already bought 11800 ohm resistor. I don't quite clearly understand convertz directions: should I strip both white wires (VATS wires) and connect them with the resistor, or should I just cut one white wire and put an inline resistor?. I am a graduate mechanical engineering student, didn't pay much attention to my Electrical Engineering classes in undeergrad Now I wish I had more knowledge in electricals stuff

 

I wouldnt strip the wires leave it intact so you can use it in future .. just stick the resistor into the 2 'holes' in the dash side of the unplugged VATS plug, 'jumping one wire to the other][thereby bypassing the VATS, and making it think that the right key is in]

1994-1996 theft deterrent module 16215659 about $113.55


OR try to find the 'theft deterrent module' in the box of junk mentioned.. and put that in the dash[its located right next to the inboard side of the glovebox]plug, that way the key will match the module?which might have the above p/n on it?

 

Added thought here...
You ARE getting a 'security' light [in the instrument cluster] for using the 'wrong' key, right?[you should be]
Charlie

 

After you unplug the connector from the key cylinder, you connect the legs of your resistor to each of the wires of the side of the connector that goes toward the VATS module. IOW, instead of having the key cylinder plugged in, you have your resistor "plugged in" in it's place. Once you do this and see how simple it is, you will wonder why you asked so many questions about it.

 

Yes, I am getting a security light. Shoebox thanks for making it simple I will let you guys know if my car will wake up today

 

That's not good. Dump some water on it, or hit it with the extinguisher.

 

Instead of doing all this resistor insertion and disabling your VATS, just do the other option of what everyone said and replace your old "theft deturrent module" with the new on that you recieved with your new key. IMO if you have your dash apart already it would be easier to just do this, and it still uses the same theory behind having VATS in the first place.. making your car hard to steal