Which K member to go with?
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,526
From: Madison, Wi
Originally posted by InjectedSS
No who the hell needs a hoist
it's all about the jackstands and lightweight aluminum race jacks
Neways I had my motor out when I did my kmember but i've pulled the kmember off many times with the engine still in the car. Pretty simple, all you gotta do is get the car up on some jackstands, then what I did since I have an M6 I just slipped a jack under the bellhousing since its pretty darn sturdy, then I jacked up there and was able to remove the motor mounts and then drop the kmember from there... Not to hard to be honest with ya.
No who the hell needs a hoist
it's all about the jackstands and lightweight aluminum race jacks Neways I had my motor out when I did my kmember but i've pulled the kmember off many times with the engine still in the car. Pretty simple, all you gotta do is get the car up on some jackstands, then what I did since I have an M6 I just slipped a jack under the bellhousing since its pretty darn sturdy, then I jacked up there and was able to remove the motor mounts and then drop the kmember from there... Not to hard to be honest with ya.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,450
From: Belleville, IL
So the weight of the motor's weight was supported by the transmission? Wow, I would've just supported the motor, but that's me.
Not sure about install price. Really depends on how experienced the shop is with something like this. The motor mounts will have to be undone, motor supported, a-arms and everything on the front spindle will have to come down, shocks, springs, etc.
It's quite a bit of work if you're just doing the k-member. I did mine when I switched motors.
Not sure about install price. Really depends on how experienced the shop is with something like this. The motor mounts will have to be undone, motor supported, a-arms and everything on the front spindle will have to come down, shocks, springs, etc.
It's quite a bit of work if you're just doing the k-member. I did mine when I switched motors.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 506
From: Boulder, CO. USA
I've done a little bit of research in regards to the K-Members.
What I've found out is that, the PA K members are more expensive, because of the chromoly material, and i guess it depends on the level of racing you're involved.
I have a BMR k-member to be installed soon. I've heard of "shorty" headers clearance issues. What I've learned is that you have to go with solid motor mounts to raise the engine a bit, to fix this problem.
Hope this helps.
-Goose
What I've found out is that, the PA K members are more expensive, because of the chromoly material, and i guess it depends on the level of racing you're involved.
I have a BMR k-member to be installed soon. I've heard of "shorty" headers clearance issues. What I've learned is that you have to go with solid motor mounts to raise the engine a bit, to fix this problem.
Hope this helps.
-Goose
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 299
From: Tri state area
Originally posted by zhevy-1
I've done a little bit of research in regards to the K-Members.
What I've found out is that, the PA K members are more expensive, because of the chromoly material, and i guess it depends on the level of racing you're involved.
I have a BMR k-member to be installed soon. I've heard of "shorty" headers clearance issues. What I've learned is that you have to go with solid motor mounts to raise the engine a bit, to fix this problem.
Hope this helps.
-Goose
I've done a little bit of research in regards to the K-Members.
What I've found out is that, the PA K members are more expensive, because of the chromoly material, and i guess it depends on the level of racing you're involved.
I have a BMR k-member to be installed soon. I've heard of "shorty" headers clearance issues. What I've learned is that you have to go with solid motor mounts to raise the engine a bit, to fix this problem.
Hope this helps.
-Goose
Registered User
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 506
From: Boulder, CO. USA
Originally posted by slider
So in order to make it fit with my shorties I need to get the k member without the mounts and they buy solid motor mounts? This is turning into a big pain in the butt.
So in order to make it fit with my shorties I need to get the k member without the mounts and they buy solid motor mounts? This is turning into a big pain in the butt.
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 299
From: Tri state area
Originally posted by zhevy-1
I think you're confused between the k-members motor mount "brackets" and the actual motor "mounts".
I think you're confused between the k-members motor mount "brackets" and the actual motor "mounts".
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,195
From: Springfield, IL
fyi, all this was with headers off the car by the way, so if you're doing those too, now is the best time
1. jack car up put on jack stands, do all normal safety stuff!!
2. take front wheels off,
3. take all cotter pins , should be 4 total if i remember right, (probably need new pins when done) out of the castle nuts, take a pickle fork and undo the steering shaft from the knuckle
4. unbolt shock from a-arm, are you doing tubular a-arms as well? might as well if you can afford imo.
5. undo all the clips holding brake lines and ABS wires to the arms, use some wire to tie the spindle with attached brakes out of the way, you want to make sure its tied up and tight and that there is still slack in the brake lines when secured you dont want the lines to be tight and possibly tear and break, then let the lower arm hang
6. you are gonna need some way to support the motor, i used an engine hoist with a chain wrapped all the way around the motor, had a packing blanket around the chain so i didnt tear anything up, worked fine that way for me, i was told you can do it by lifting on the crank pulley, i did not feel comfortable that way, you should also be able to use a a jack and and block of wood (to spread out the wieght) on the oil pan to support it also, be careful doing it that way
7. unbolt the steering rack from the stock k-member (2 bolts) and support it with some wire, the best way that you can, do not let it hang loose! might even be best to tie it 1st then unbolt it so it doesnt really move anywhere...
8. undo the clips holding the metal line (power steering or brake?) that runs along the k-member by the steering rack, i forgot to do that and those little clips held the entire k-member in place undid them and it dropped onto the ground.
9. with the motor securely held in place, take out both motor mount bolts, passenger side is a lil tuffer to get to then the drivers but still not real hard, i found it easiest to get both mount bolts out when the motor was raised up just a hair, relieves some of the weight off them making it easier to pull them thru, you'll see
10. with a jack under the stock member, undo either all 6 or 8 k-member bolts (cant remember off hand) then lower it down and out of the way, slowly so just in case you forgot to undo something
if you are doing lower a-arms as well you need to assemble the a-arms and k-frame while its outside of the vehicle, because it needs to all go in at once, i dont know about putting the stock arms back on the tubular k-frame, it will work but i didnt do it so i cant help ya there
someone jump in here with the small things i forgot to tell him, i know there is some stuff, its been a year since i did mine.
it probably would've taken me 5-6 hrs. to do it but it ended up taking 2 months, waiting on parts and ordering extra stuff, figured while i had that much room to do things underneath might as well go for it!
hope that helps some, its really self explanitory once you get under there and start really looking at things! just take your time putting it back together as not forget stuff and go over it again and again and again
Steve
EDIT: lol damn thats a big reply, but thats how i did mine
1. jack car up put on jack stands, do all normal safety stuff!!
2. take front wheels off,
3. take all cotter pins , should be 4 total if i remember right, (probably need new pins when done) out of the castle nuts, take a pickle fork and undo the steering shaft from the knuckle
4. unbolt shock from a-arm, are you doing tubular a-arms as well? might as well if you can afford imo.
5. undo all the clips holding brake lines and ABS wires to the arms, use some wire to tie the spindle with attached brakes out of the way, you want to make sure its tied up and tight and that there is still slack in the brake lines when secured you dont want the lines to be tight and possibly tear and break, then let the lower arm hang
6. you are gonna need some way to support the motor, i used an engine hoist with a chain wrapped all the way around the motor, had a packing blanket around the chain so i didnt tear anything up, worked fine that way for me, i was told you can do it by lifting on the crank pulley, i did not feel comfortable that way, you should also be able to use a a jack and and block of wood (to spread out the wieght) on the oil pan to support it also, be careful doing it that way
7. unbolt the steering rack from the stock k-member (2 bolts) and support it with some wire, the best way that you can, do not let it hang loose! might even be best to tie it 1st then unbolt it so it doesnt really move anywhere...
8. undo the clips holding the metal line (power steering or brake?) that runs along the k-member by the steering rack, i forgot to do that and those little clips held the entire k-member in place undid them and it dropped onto the ground.
9. with the motor securely held in place, take out both motor mount bolts, passenger side is a lil tuffer to get to then the drivers but still not real hard, i found it easiest to get both mount bolts out when the motor was raised up just a hair, relieves some of the weight off them making it easier to pull them thru, you'll see
10. with a jack under the stock member, undo either all 6 or 8 k-member bolts (cant remember off hand) then lower it down and out of the way, slowly so just in case you forgot to undo something
if you are doing lower a-arms as well you need to assemble the a-arms and k-frame while its outside of the vehicle, because it needs to all go in at once, i dont know about putting the stock arms back on the tubular k-frame, it will work but i didnt do it so i cant help ya there
someone jump in here with the small things i forgot to tell him, i know there is some stuff, its been a year since i did mine.
it probably would've taken me 5-6 hrs. to do it but it ended up taking 2 months, waiting on parts and ordering extra stuff, figured while i had that much room to do things underneath might as well go for it!
hope that helps some, its really self explanitory once you get under there and start really looking at things! just take your time putting it back together as not forget stuff and go over it again and again and again
Steve
EDIT: lol damn thats a big reply, but thats how i did mine
Registered User
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 506
From: Boulder, CO. USA
Originally posted by slider
Yes, I was. Who sells solid motor mounts for LT1s? I only see poly at Thunder and Summit
Yes, I was. Who sells solid motor mounts for LT1s? I only see poly at Thunder and Summit
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 299
From: Tri state area
Originally posted by simple
fyi, all this was with headers off the car by the way, so if you're doing those too, now is the best time
1. jack car up put on jack stands, do all normal safety stuff!!
2. take front wheels off,
3. take all cotter pins , should be 4 total if i remember right, (probably need new pins when done) out of the castle nuts, take a pickle fork and undo the steering shaft from the knuckle
4. unbolt shock from a-arm, are you doing tubular a-arms as well? might as well if you can afford imo.
5. undo all the clips holding brake lines and ABS wires to the arms, use some wire to tie the spindle with attached brakes out of the way, you want to make sure its tied up and tight and that there is still slack in the brake lines when secured you dont want the lines to be tight and possibly tear and break, then let the lower arm hang
6. you are gonna need some way to support the motor, i used an engine hoist with a chain wrapped all the way around the motor, had a packing blanket around the chain so i didnt tear anything up, worked fine that way for me, i was told you can do it by lifting on the crank pulley, i did not feel comfortable that way, you should also be able to use a a jack and and block of wood (to spread out the wieght) on the oil pan to support it also, be careful doing it that way
7. unbolt the steering rack from the stock k-member (2 bolts) and support it with some wire, the best way that you can, do not let it hang loose! might even be best to tie it 1st then unbolt it so it doesnt really move anywhere...
8. undo the clips holding the metal line (power steering or brake?) that runs along the k-member by the steering rack, i forgot to do that and those little clips held the entire k-member in place undid them and it dropped onto the ground.
9. with the motor securely held in place, take out both motor mount bolts, passenger side is a lil tuffer to get to then the drivers but still not real hard, i found it easiest to get both mount bolts out when the motor was raised up just a hair, relieves some of the weight off them making it easier to pull them thru, you'll see
10. with a jack under the stock member, undo either all 6 or 8 k-member bolts (cant remember off hand) then lower it down and out of the way, slowly so just in case you forgot to undo something
if you are doing lower a-arms as well you need to assemble the a-arms and k-frame while its outside of the vehicle, because it needs to all go in at once, i dont know about putting the stock arms back on the tubular k-frame, it will work but i didnt do it so i cant help ya there
someone jump in here with the small things i forgot to tell him, i know there is some stuff, its been a year since i did mine.
it probably would've taken me 5-6 hrs. to do it but it ended up taking 2 months, waiting on parts and ordering extra stuff, figured while i had that much room to do things underneath might as well go for it!
hope that helps some, its really self explanitory once you get under there and start really looking at things! just take your time putting it back together as not forget stuff and go over it again and again and again
Steve
EDIT: lol damn thats a big reply, but thats how i did mine
fyi, all this was with headers off the car by the way, so if you're doing those too, now is the best time
1. jack car up put on jack stands, do all normal safety stuff!!
2. take front wheels off,
3. take all cotter pins , should be 4 total if i remember right, (probably need new pins when done) out of the castle nuts, take a pickle fork and undo the steering shaft from the knuckle
4. unbolt shock from a-arm, are you doing tubular a-arms as well? might as well if you can afford imo.
5. undo all the clips holding brake lines and ABS wires to the arms, use some wire to tie the spindle with attached brakes out of the way, you want to make sure its tied up and tight and that there is still slack in the brake lines when secured you dont want the lines to be tight and possibly tear and break, then let the lower arm hang
6. you are gonna need some way to support the motor, i used an engine hoist with a chain wrapped all the way around the motor, had a packing blanket around the chain so i didnt tear anything up, worked fine that way for me, i was told you can do it by lifting on the crank pulley, i did not feel comfortable that way, you should also be able to use a a jack and and block of wood (to spread out the wieght) on the oil pan to support it also, be careful doing it that way
7. unbolt the steering rack from the stock k-member (2 bolts) and support it with some wire, the best way that you can, do not let it hang loose! might even be best to tie it 1st then unbolt it so it doesnt really move anywhere...
8. undo the clips holding the metal line (power steering or brake?) that runs along the k-member by the steering rack, i forgot to do that and those little clips held the entire k-member in place undid them and it dropped onto the ground.
9. with the motor securely held in place, take out both motor mount bolts, passenger side is a lil tuffer to get to then the drivers but still not real hard, i found it easiest to get both mount bolts out when the motor was raised up just a hair, relieves some of the weight off them making it easier to pull them thru, you'll see
10. with a jack under the stock member, undo either all 6 or 8 k-member bolts (cant remember off hand) then lower it down and out of the way, slowly so just in case you forgot to undo something
if you are doing lower a-arms as well you need to assemble the a-arms and k-frame while its outside of the vehicle, because it needs to all go in at once, i dont know about putting the stock arms back on the tubular k-frame, it will work but i didnt do it so i cant help ya there
someone jump in here with the small things i forgot to tell him, i know there is some stuff, its been a year since i did mine.
it probably would've taken me 5-6 hrs. to do it but it ended up taking 2 months, waiting on parts and ordering extra stuff, figured while i had that much room to do things underneath might as well go for it!
hope that helps some, its really self explanitory once you get under there and start really looking at things! just take your time putting it back together as not forget stuff and go over it again and again and again
Steve
EDIT: lol damn thats a big reply, but thats how i did mine
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 320
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
I purchased the BMR kmember w. upper+lower A arms as a package, about 3 weeks ago. I won't get the chance to install them till spring time so I couldn't tell you how well they fit/work. What I can say is that the quality of the Kmember (welds, paint, etc.) is all top notch. The complete package (a arms included) will shave off something like 47lbs off the front end.
You can check out some picture I took of them on my website. Just click the link on my signature. I thinks the pics. are on page 3.
You can check out some picture I took of them on my website. Just click the link on my signature. I thinks the pics. are on page 3.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 260
From: Turnersville/Washington Twp. NJ
Originally posted by Jason Dove
The BMR clears my MAC headers just fine... incase anyone is worried about that.
The BMR clears my MAC headers just fine... incase anyone is worried about that.
Banned
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,475
Originally posted by Fastbird93
Wow, don't you think that would be putting a lot of stress on that bellhousing and the connection right there?? I mean, amen to ingenuity and all, but that seems kind of risky. Now watch me go and do the same thing!!
Wow, don't you think that would be putting a lot of stress on that bellhousing and the connection right there?? I mean, amen to ingenuity and all, but that seems kind of risky. Now watch me go and do the same thing!!
Originally posted by IDOXLR8
How long did it take you to remove the stock k-member and put the new one in? Thanks
How long did it take you to remove the stock k-member and put the new one in? Thanks
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