My '96 383 Solid Roller began to have a weird starting cadence during cranking about a week ago. Kind of indicating a difference in cranking resistance on a cylinder or two. I figured that it must be the lifters needing adjustment after 5 months and 4,xxx miles. So I pull the valve covers off last night and adjusted them. I then reassemble most of the components but leave off the re-install of the alternator, preferring to test start the motor and listen for signs of maladjustment before putting it completely back together.

Crap...

The odd cadence is still there and some valves are clattering excessively. I pull the drivers side cover off again and adjust #1's Exhaust valve lash. Then I move to #1's Intake valve and, using only my thumb and forefinger, I try to go down to zero lash but I only feel 'slight' resistance and I notice the rocker tip is starting to actuate the valve, pushing it down. ...

wth?

I loosen the rocker nut and then retighten. Down goes the valve.

Holy .....

So I take my finger and just push on the retainer. The valve sinks into the cylinder.

Damn...

This was during the night so the light wasn't the best so I move the drop light down closer to the head and there I see it. The outer valve spring is broken in two places. I think there is one like it on the passenger side head on cylinder #6. I just stopped with what I was doing, replaced the valve cover to prevent dust inhalation and then went inside the house to cuss. I contacted Cam Motions regarding a replacement spring and they recommended the K-1100. I have NO idea what springs were in my motor because the fellow I purchased the cam/kit from didn't know either. I know we, in the fbody community, have been suffering from a spate of bad valve springs of late and I'm just wondering if the K-1100 are among the group that has NOT been known to break or if it is in the doomed group. Anyone have any insight on this?
Thanks guys!
David K. Wilson

 

i was going to go withthe k-800 or 900 i forgot, but its the ones that are 1.46 dia. they would fit without any machining to the seat, only the locator would need to be slightly modified,or so ive read on the internet but you know what they say about that.the specks are like 175lbs installed at 1.75, 375 open and 725 max lift and there a double spring and only about $100.its k-motion for anyone interested in looking them up, summit carries there products.

 

If you can push the spring down with the rocker on,on the side of the retainer then you have NO SPRING.
Get the set up to change them on the car and have a couple tested. Then replace the whole set and over spring a little vs under or even spring rate that is your cam.
There are way better springs out there beside Comp and not knowing what is on there they will be mismatched. Get a complete set and check the installed height and get the retainers and keepers and cups that go with the new springs.

 

I have used K-motion springs.....no problems.

They were rec. to me in 2000-2001 from a machinist that runs circle track cars he has had good luck with them. I know the did have problems long ago...10 years or so with the H-11 steel. But never heard of any problems after that got resolved

 

Thanks for the info guys. I'll order 'toms tool' and order a set of the springs. Summit has them for $12x while Jegs has them for $132.
Dave

 

I'm using a spring very similar to the K1100. 225 seat pressure, good for .700 set up at 1.950". No complaints so far but the motor has only run a dozen times or so.

 

I have them in my solid roller setup and they have been doing fine. But I have not run them hard and I only have about 2000 miles on them.

 

Man, that cam in your sig is no toy. What does that motor pull on the dyno?

 

hasn't made it there yet. Its almost ready... pulling the 10 bolt out this weekend and bolting in the 12 bolt housing. Take a few quick measurements and order a driveshaft. Then build the rear and drop in the driveshaft and off to the dyno for some tuning.

I am hopping to see 450+ at the wheels with an NA 355 The converter is a bit tight. It was a 4000 stall Yank behind my old cam only motor, should stall a bit higher with this one but still probably not enough. Limiting it to 7000 rpm with the stock ecm. We will see.

http://videos.camaroz28.com/video/ec...6e01825771.htm

 

That valvetrain sounds a wee bit like mine. Solid roller rules the world!

 

Yeah I was looking at your post the other day, Sound like your set up is going to make some nice power as well. I've got a little more cam, more compression, more head, but a lot less cubes. Post up when you get it on a dyno. I definately know what its like to plan a build for over 2 years and still not be done. I've been going almost 3 years now

 

Good luck on both your setups, I cant wait to get started on my SR build.

 

BTW there DirtyDave.. the K1100 is what Cam Motion recommended with my cam. If I remember right they were 225 lbs closed and 590 lbs open at 1.950 installed height. Since TEA built my heads they put on the "Trick Flow" springs. I know for a fact that they are not made by TF and are just a spring they use and slap a TF part number on the paperwork. My springs might actually be the K1100's...

They also used "Trick Flow" valves in my heads... Thats funny since they say Ferra right on them

 

Well, using the 'rope trick' I loaded the cylinder up, gently turned the crank till it packed the rope against the valves, pushed down on the retainer and, using a telescoping magnet, I pulled off the locks. Retrieving the springs off of #1 Intake, I laid it out on the box with the new K-1100 springs I just got from Jegs.

Behold...



Here's the Jegs supplied K-1100's

 

so the inner and outer springs broke... the only thing that keept you from certain total failure was the damper. BTW, if you just turn the engine till the valves are just starting to swap you can safely pull the spring off and the vale will not fall into the engine. It might drop 1/4" but thats it. No need to even bother pulling the plugs.

By "valves starting to swap" I mean the point when the exhaust valve is almost closed and the intake valve starts to open. Stop there and pull the springs. The valve won't go anywhere.