What else should be done on a '95 Z28 when the car is getting to be high mileage?

It has 90k right now, and I know the plugs are supposed to be changed at 100k. The car has a slight intake manifold oil leak that needs to be fixed eventually, but I don't know when.

What do you recommend to be done the same time as a spark plug change? Need to start budgeting the money.

 

spark plug wires,cap and rotor, check bushings and i dont know what else

 

flush the coolant too unless it looks brand new. If you see gunk under the actual radiator cap then flush it!

While you have it drained take off BOTH heater core hoses (nearest the radiator, or cut them to make it easiest and use a splice to put it back together), then use the garden hose to power flow thru the heater core in both directions, then put it all back together.

There is alot of soft sludge in there that the water pump doesnt have enough power to push out which the garden hose has plenty.

Alot of these cars (and any car in general) will start to suffer from lower heater core output due to sludge buildup.

People dont really pay attention to it or notice it until the colder days when they realize it's just not putting out the same heat as it used too.

 

Shocks, suspension bushings, tie rod ends and lower ball joints(at least check them), flush all fluids (brake, coolant, power steering), change the oil and trans fluid/filter, cap and rotor, air filter. I am doing the same things along with some mods with my car over the winter. It has about 96k on it.

My opti cap and rotor went out at about 94k miles. I just replaced the complete assembly rather than having to mess with it again.

 

I honestly wouldn't bother with the cap & rotor until the opti fails at which time you should replace the entire unit. If it ain't broke...

 

I don't know if it would surprise anyone, but the car still has the original opti and runs perfectly. We've had the car since '95.

The fluid changes sound like a VERY good idea.

Would the shocks really be worn out? I'm under the impression/assumption that they should last much longer than 100k.

Would there be any reason to fix the intake manifold leak since it is so minor? Would there be any reason that the engine internals should be checked?

 

Add a PCV valve to the list, fuel filter, change rear axle lube (w/ LSD additive).

I would leave the Opti alone. I would not flush the heater core unless you have a known problem with poor heat.

The intake manifold leak will just keep getting worse. For some reason, it will eventually affect the way the engine runs.

With regard to engine internals, since you have owned the car since new, you know how well you took care of it. It you have changed the oil and filter regularly, using quality oil, it should still be in good condition. If you want to "check", do a compression test. That will highlight any imbalance between the cylinders due to wear.

I would also have it scanned for codes..... there are some that don't turn on the SES light.

I'm surprised you actually got 90k+ miles out of the plugs. Several of my original AC Delco plugs lost the platinum pucks by 30K miles, leaving huge gaps, and eventual misfires.

Check all vacuum hoses for cracks. They will probably be showing signs of age.

 

What are vacuum hoses? Do they have an alternate name? You lost me there.

 

Vacuum lines are just that, lines with manifold vacuum. Coming off of the intake manifold there are several (there is a diagram on the radiator support), including one each for the EGR, fuel pressure regulator, EVAP purge solenoid, PCV lines, and one for the HVAC system. If any of these are cracked or broken it will result in a vacuum leak.

 

Ah, okay. Those likely do need changing. Last time I was under the car, it appeared there was a hose flopping around above the gas tank. I believe it was related to the EGR/charcoal canister. I couldn't reach it to rehook it. Thus, the car smells like gas when driven and parked.

 

You might want to get that fixed, NOW. Gas vapors are the last thing I would want hanging around.

 

You should flush the heater core if you flushed your coolant, that's like not flushing the trans cooler after you smoked your trans, or not cleaning out the oil pan after rebuilding from a rod knock.

You would be suprised how much stuff could come out, my brothers Fbird had it, my TA had it, my Saturn had it, and my friends truck at it, all of us were suprised at the increase in heat afterwards.

Since it adds on only 5-10 minutes to the flush job there's really no reason not too.

 

Let's just chalk it up to a difference of opinion.... let the guy who asked the question decide what to do

My car is 16 years old, and with proper maintenance has never has any sign of solids buildup anywhere in the cooling system.

 

The only other thing i have always done which is twice and some say not to is flush the transmission i did it every hundred thousand miles and i have two hundred twenty thousand miles on mine. Its about a hundred and fifty dollars to have it done unless you do it yourself. Which still cost around eighty dollars. Also if you dont have one you need to get a 1993-1997 haynes or chilton manual and it will tell you everything these guys have been telling you to do and nothings hard. Note though if you have the original air filter then id either clean it or just buy a new one for forty five bucks. I couldnt get my first one clean and i spent some serious time with it.

 

Everyone has great ideas and recommendations. Here is my 2cents.
1. A/C delco platinum plugs. 2.Premium wires(not auto zone) 3.PCV (every 15k)
4.Cap & rotor(check summit for complete opti unit,sometimes cheaper)
5.Fuel filter(get the better quality) 6.Clean the throttle body and maf.
7. Air filter if dirty or clean the k&n(don't overoil) 8.Shorty spark plug socket
9. Replace the intake manifold gaskets 10. Thermostat
11.Coolant flush,flushing the heater core out with a garden hose alternating hoses can help but never hurts. I replace withstandard green
12. I also replace the water pump and hoses but that one will cause some major debate among people so remember this is what i do and not for everyone

Check the trans fluid to make sure its not black. If its slightly brown then its ok to flush.If you are mechanically inclined i would have the trans fluid flushed(not just jiffy lube suck 3 quarts out and replaced) by a reputable shop. Should be around 100 bucks. Then change the filter yourself at home. You can save the fluid and put it back in after you are done. The auto trans lt1s are hard on parts and you would be surprised the junk that is in the filter after you break them apart. Something most people do not do after a filter change. If you can afford the extra get the fluid flushed with a premium synthetic fluid(not high mileage).