http://store.summitracing.com/partde...8&autoview=sku

Thanks Guys,

I bought a new radiator cap and thermostat!

The Problem i've been having is Overheating irraticly, Overflow tank would over flow, And radiator would be cool.... The top hose was under presure and HOT... Am i on the right track???


Thanks again for the quick help


Jaron

 

That's the right t-stat - just bought two a couple weeks ago and installed in both LT1s. Picture is deceiving because it makes it look short and fat compared to the stocker.

 

I'm not so sure that is correct. It maybe...but it doesn't look right to me.

Where is the part of the thermostat that seals off the bypass? If it is not blocked off upon opening...then most of the coolant is going to bypass the engine. That maybe why he is overheating....



I would advise you buy a new LT1 180* thermostat(or put in your old one if it is okay) and see if your cooling problems go away.

This is what SLP's LT1 160* stat looks like....
http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...4&BIG=100224-1

 

The pic is wrong, but the thermostat number is correct for a 160°.

 

Thanks guys for the input..

I have a 160 aftermarket now... Not sure the brand.... It worked for 2 yrs.. this just happened recently..

thanks
meissenation
&
Shoebox for varifying...


I hope the cap and therm fix my problem!

 

Was the Right Thermostat! : )

The problem ended up being a faulty ground wire to the water pump

 

Glad the t-stat worked and glad you found the problem with the ground wire. I hate trying to track down ground issues - those are always a bugger to find.

 

why is the 160 one better, what dose it help just kep the car cooler, and how dose that help.

 

A reasonably cooler liquid is going to allow the part to run better and last longer. I'm being very vague here because it's applicable across more than just coolant temp. If the fluid is cooler, the object will run cooler which is better for longevity. This applies to the coolant, oil, and transmission. Likewise, the key phrase IMHO is "reasonably cooler" - there's going to be a limit on how warm the liquid must be for it to work properly.

For example, my fans are on 100% all the time because I have a v6 body harness with a v8 engine harness. The body harness only has one set of wires for the fan so I had to splice both fans into the one set of wires. Fuse hasn't blown after over 300 miles with it wired like that but when the PCM commands the fans on low they're both on low and when the PCM commands the fans on high, they're both on high. My temp gauge has yet to go over 185, it usually stays right around the 160* mark. My transmission goes through a B&M SuperCooler and the trans temp sensor that the PCM reads stayed around 170* on a 1 hr drive on the highway.

 

From a performance view, the cooler the engine, the more dense the air charge is in the heads. This will create more power. You can also run higher compression ratios without detonation(hence the reverse flow cooling system in the LT1).

My understanding is that the hotter the engine, the more efficient the engine is and it helps emissions....however this robs power due to a less dense air charge.

 

Nice try, Meissenation, but wrong...

The point behind lowering the coolant temps is so that you can advance the timing to gain power without increasing your chances of detonation. Lower coolant temps will actually cause the engine to make less power unless you advance the timing.

I'm no engineer but I seriously doubt that a temperature difference of 25 degrees F with an absolute temperature of around 200 degrees F has any impact at all on the materials the engine is made of. A twenty degree difference on an electronic component will cetainly impact performance and lifespan but that just doesn't seem to translate to cast iron and aluminum.

Bottom line...unless you're going to advance the timing through an aftermarket tune, put the 180 degree thermostat back in there and be done with it. You're wasting fuel with a cooler thermostat and a stock tune...

 

True..... I have a custom tune

 

Thanks for the info - was just repeating what I've always been told. :P I thought it made sense but your explanation does too.