Ok i just got my 1.6 rr's today and planned on puttin them on sometime soon. I am lucky here bc i have a rebuilt LT1 that is sittin on an engine stand. What all do i have to do to swap these rockers?....also what kind of gains can you see me getting with these??

 

I gained 1.8mph in the 1/4 but couldn't get tracktion so my times didn't imprive.

 

Thats good news. But how do i install them or what do I have to do??

 

I am no way trying to be a smartass here, but did you build your engine? Are you going to put it in your car? The reason I ask this is, you are asking how to put rocker arms on. I would assume if you did build the engine you would already know how to because it would have been done before. Man I know I might be coming off as a jerk, I don't mean to at all.

 

here is a very good site on how to do the job. Read it over a few times

http://www.streetillusionsracing.com/RR/rr.htm

 

Thats a really good site. Thats the one I used.

 

I've heard usually 7-10HP at the rear wheels on a stock-mild LT1 and 17-20 on a supercharged LT1. That site is really good, you might want to do one cylinder at a time as not to get overwhelmed

 

OK i read this site and it gives instructions on doing it while replacing the valve springs. Which steps do I skip? I decided against it since the springs are brand new and people seem to get along fine with the stock ones. One other thing i dont understand is why do you have to re-adjust everything a cylinder at a time when the pushrods and lifters and cam arent even changing position while just replacing the rocker arms?

 

You don't have to do the cylinder-to-cylinder method. I did only because I was changing the springs and valve stem seals also. I just did this swap, and dyno'd last weekend. Gained 7 rwhp and 2 lb-ft of torque from it. I still have stock manifolds, so if you're using headers you might get a little more.

 

If you have the motor out of the car you mine as well put the LT4 valve springs in. I have 1.6 RR's on stock springs. Am I pushing my luck? Yes I think but wont change them till i at least get headers so it will be a little easier to do. I adjusted mine 8 at a time using one of the methods on Shoebox's web site. I noticed a lot more top end pull in my car with the 1.6 RR's. I ran a 13.37 @104.7 with a 2.05 60' with 1.6RR's, CAI, and a cut out. Just make sure that you dont tighten them down too tight. I did that my first time and had to go back through and readjust them. Good luck.

 

Exhaust manifolds, headers, either way there is NO difference in difficulty. Honestly the exhaust manifolds have nothing to do with difficulty, it's just having the heads on the car period that makes it hard to change the valve springs.

 

You really are pushing luck using stock valve springs..

And of course you have to readjust the valves after replacing the rockers...[that's what the adjustment is done with]

You need to adjust each one while it's on the base circle of the cam...

An engine just sitting there will have various valves in various stages of opening or closing[all aren't 'closed]

You can't just 'remove and replace' rockers and run the engine.. you have to adjust the valves[with the rocker arm 'height' on the stud]

The lifter and pushrod and rocker arm open the valve.. too 'tight' and the valve doesn't close... too 'loose' and the rockers clack..

 

Ok, Im outside in the garage and i was just seeing what it would look like with one of them on and i just pulled off the last rocker arm on the right side and i put on the 1.6 and the new nut that goes on it sticks up to high for the valve cover to fit all the way on. Im kinda fonfused here bc i thought that all 1.6's fit with stock cover's. By the way they are the Summit Racing 1.6's that are 159.99.

 

Not sure if ALL 1.6's fit with stock covers...[Crane Golds do]
Did you adjust the valve[in other words is the nut finger tight? or tightened to where it will BE when its adjusted and running?
Did you tighten the center lock also[that might be sticking up a bit..
As I posted above, you can't just throw these on... you have to adjust the valve..
Also check if you have thr trunnion [center fulcrum bearing]part of the RR facing the right way.. some have a right and wrong way...

 

I didn't know you could get self aligning rrs that cheap. I haven't looked through Summit in a while. You did get self aligning right?

You have to adjust the valves as mentioned before. Therefore, you are going to have to turn the crank for each one. You can do several different cylinders at one time but for me, I do each one at a time so I don't skip any. Take your time and if you don't feel 100% confident it is right, do it again.

I am taking my chances with stock springs but I haven't floated a valve yet. My rev limit is set at 6500.

I love my rrs. I got the Crane golds and they picked me up from 107mph in the 1/4 to 111-112. That is on an LT1 with only bolt ons.