LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

just got done with heads/cam install, got some little questions

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Old Jun 7, 2004 | 11:22 PM
  #1  
BlackbirdWS6's Avatar
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just got done with heads/cam install, got some little questions

just got done with my heads/cam/headers project along with some other odds and ends with the car. Baby fired right up after it was all buttoned up and everything was checked. when we first fired it up, it idled right at 900 and oil pressure, fuel pressure was right where it should be at. now....i only ran it for roughly 20 secs before shutting it down (was 1am and running open headers ) fast forward to the next day, fired it up and brought rpms to 1800-2000 to break in the cam and fill the radiator and so forth. After running for a couple minutes the SES light popped on but the car ran just fine still. However after the light came on, the idle rose to around 1050-1100 for reasons i dont know. After I ran the car for 15-20 min, i took the car for a quick spin around the block, car was surging between 1000-2000 rpms, but cleared right up after that. Could I be experiencing a vacuum leak of some sort to cause this? The car is an M6, with the EGR and AIR deleted and all plugged up. The front o2's are not installed and the rear ones were deleted in programming along with the EGR and AIR. Im not too concerned since the engine sounds really healthy and snaps right up when u give it a stab. assistance would be really appreciated. Sorry for the long post.

Lastly, im going to the exhaust place by me to have them make a y-pipe for me. will the car be ok running it there with no o2's hooked up? (like a 10-15 min drive) and finally, i got 24" o2 extensions, will they reach the y-pipe do u think?

Last edited by BlackbirdWS6; Jun 7, 2004 at 11:25 PM.
Old Jun 7, 2004 | 11:27 PM
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Not sure about everything else but you will be ok to drive with no o2's, the car will run extremely rich though.
Old Jun 7, 2004 | 11:29 PM
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yea i assumed it would, what rpm should i run it over there at? its mainly a 10 min highway drive, figure would try and save me from changing plugs heh
Old Jun 8, 2004 | 07:36 AM
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ttt
Old Jun 8, 2004 | 07:47 AM
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there is no break in procedure needed for a hydraulic roller valvetrain. dont worry about keeping it at a certain rpm for a certain amount of time, that is for old school flat tappet motors
Old Jun 8, 2004 | 10:38 AM
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heh thanks, i was just following instructions comp gave me so as to have no other dumb excuses of it screwing things up....any idea about runnin with no o2's and also the slightly erratic idle?
Old Jun 8, 2004 | 04:39 PM
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someone has to have some insight on this...help a man out, the sooner this baby is running where it should, be the quicker i get to stompin on some LS1's . not trying to start a war, just a man that spent a decent amount of scratch and would like to be done and enjoy it.
Old Jun 9, 2004 | 06:31 AM
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O2's i think it will run without them, it will just run all kinds of messed up and the slightly iratic idle will become the least of your problems at that point

the idle issue will have to be dealt with thru tuning, it wont have any major affects on anything i wouldnt think, unless you have a vaccum leak somewhere...
Old Jun 9, 2004 | 08:24 AM
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yeah, the idle will be part of the tune. mine did exactly the same thing. when I initially fired it up, it would idle at 650 (this is before my new tune though), but after a few min. of running, it would idle at 1200-1400 for a while, then it would calm down and idle lower. I havent driven mine ,cause Ive been waiting to instal the tune and a few other minor things. but hopefully I'll be driving it this afternoon since Im goin out there right now to try to get it finished.
so after you get the exh. done, go somewhere that will clear all your codes (you might want to write them/it down first though) and drive it again, it shouldnt reset any codes at that point. Im not sure what codes are stored inmy car, but the fan comes on right away which tells me its in limp mode, which means its running off predetermined tables, instead of act. reading all the sensors like it should be. yours could be doin the same.
Old Jun 9, 2004 | 08:39 AM
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The SES light is most likely the random misfire code as a result of the cam lope.

This can be cured with a better tune for the computer.
Old Jun 9, 2004 | 11:15 AM
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got my exhaust done today, along with my subframes and it sounds and runs great. I reset my computer and it didnt pop a code on the way home which is like a 10-15 min drive. anyway, my only question is with the surging im getting when i try to "torque" the car around. meaning that I keep rpms around 1500-2200 for normal round town driving and use that to get me around. when i spin her up she is full swing though, so my thoughts are that its the nature of the cam. lastly, when i come to a full stop, the rpms drop to around 650-700 and i can give it a lil kick to get her back up to 900-950 where i had her to tuned to be. any insight?
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