My best run was a 12.6@113.5 with a 2.11 60'. I wasn't expecting any miracles with the E.T. since I'm on street tires, but I'm down 2mph from what my old cam trapped at, and I have another 25rwhp right now vs my old cam. I don't know where to start looking, I was getting KR all night, but on the last run it was only 0.6 degrees, and thats not enough to even be noticable, so I guess I have to look somewhere else. Tunes don't go bad all the sudden, or if you have the computer(battery) unplugged for a couple weeks do they?

 

might want to figure out why those 60ft's are so high.

 

Street tires and a track that isn't known for the prep. I was spinning all of first, and 2/3rd's of 2nd gear. I'm not worried about the 60', I'm worried about the trap speed.

 

Why are you worried about trap speed more than time? Speed has more to do with gears than it does power. Power is for acceleration and time, gears are more for speed. If you want a higher ending speed, don't go with such high gears. 3.73's are for accelerating but not high end speed, 2.73's kill acceleration but are better for high end speed. Just something to think about.

 

Disconnecting the battery for ~about 30 seconds will cause all the collected run information to be lost. The car then will need to be driven enough to allow the car to learn best setting for the blocks.

I usually drive the car ~ hour to make sure the PCM has adjusted after I reprogram. It will make a difference, driving won't fix a bad tune, but not driving could make a good tune look like it is off.

I think the reason he isn't worried about anything but mph is that mph will indicate the setups potential. I usually worry first about ET then get car to get 'proper' ET for MPH.

PS What were BLM's at launch? I have gone to track with new tune and launched at 135 - 142 and dropped MPH. There is a program I think called locker that SUPPOSEDLY locks the BLMs to 128 for WOT. If you need it I can send it to you. I have not used it yet since my tune now seems correct.

 

Get your traction issue's figured out and your mph will fall in line.. Your et is not bad considering you spun 1st and most of 2nd... Get the car setup to handle the power than question why's and How's...

 

You are pretty backwards on this. Power= MPH, efficiency=ET. He is on street tires, which to me means with over 370rwhp he is not gonna 60ft well. He already expected that. His drop in MPH at the end of the track is what he is worried, because a couple MPH drop is a good amount of HP lost. 3.73 gears can't be considered bad for topend, just punch the numbers in a good ole calculator and see how fast you can still go with your car with a gear swap, you might be suprised and probably wont go that fast anyways.

What was your previous best with the old setup?

 

Put some sticky tires on and then go from there. Once your 60's are stable you can better determine if your down on hp. I really don't think you have a problem, other than traction, seeing as you said you spun all the way through 1st and only lost 2mph and besides mph don't win races et does, so get some tires.

Randy

 

He can't get tires... he switched to a 6spd and has a 10 bolt

Just messin' with ya man.. but seriously, if you spun most of 1st and 2nd, you prolly lost MPH right there.

What were the conditions compared to your old runs last night?

 

You said you have 25 more hp. Did you dyno it? If so how does the graph look. There is possibly an issue somewhere. Power = mph, don't listen to anyone that tells you differently. But there is a chance that you are spinning enough you could eventually lose some mph. That being said, a 2.1 is not HORRIBLE for street tires. When I think of people spinning all the way down the track I think of 2.6s or 2.8s or even worse.

Dyno graph?

 

A lot of it is driver. One of the guys in my car club is running 275/40/17 Sumitomos (sp?) and is cutting 1.8x 60's on a 6-speed with 350rwhp. You can get that 60' below 2.0 on street tires it'll just take some practice. If nothing else, get some drag radials and easy out on the clutch and you'll get your 60' where it needs to be and see the MPH and the ET that you are looking for.

 

Conditions were pretty similar, but I don't know the exact D/A for both nights, but the temp was within 5 degrees.
And heres the dyno graph.
http://www.lifeinwidescreen.com/siihp/846_dyno.jpg
I dyno'd 375.3 on the best run, but thats the only one that he got the tach signal to pick up past 5800. And I added an U/D pulley since then, that might have given me 2hp.... My old dyno with my old 210/224 cam was 352/356...

 

That was my best run of the night, most were in teh 2.2's to 2.3's. I babied it off the line, it hooked for a second, then once I got past 3K it just broke loose again....

 

The spinning in 1st and second will hurt your MPH. At lease get some DRs on the care, and you'll mph 2-3 mph higher.

 

Every time I have spun my MPH increased, the ET also increases when you spin. This is the case for everyone I know that races.

PS EDited to make it clear that MPH increases (improves) but ET increases (gets worse)