Just for fun, 10sec with 383
Originally posted by 96-speed
Since 99% of us haven't done it, I'd say we don't know what it would take. Talk to Steve Quinn if you can - He knows what's going on.
Ryan
Since 99% of us haven't done it, I'd say we don't know what it would take. Talk to Steve Quinn if you can - He knows what's going on.
Ryan
Since this is just for fun
Donovan aluminum block
Callies magnum X-S 4340 crankshaft
Carillo billet rods
JE pistons
Custom ported AFR 215 RR heads
Hogan sheet metal intake, AS&M Monoblade TB
Solid roller camshaft somewhere around 24x/25x (daily driver cam)
Jesel shaft mount rockers
Crane Endure-X lifters
FAST engine management
Canton oil pan
Hooker LTs and Mufflex 4" catback
Huge fuel system and injectors
BMR upper and lower control arms, k-member, LCAs, panhard bar and STB
Madman torque arm
HAL 12-way shocks
Eiback drag launch springs
Brembo brakes
12-bolt with all the bells and whistles
Denny's "Nitrous Ready" driveshaft
TH400 with GV overdrive and 4000 stall converter
Or if you have an T-56, Mcleod Street twin (rebuilt of course with cryogenically treated internals, forged shift forks etc)
Plus a Pro 5.0 shifter
Lightweight cowl hood
Racing seats, 5-point harness and roll cage
Bogart 15x10 and 15x1.3 racing wheels
ET streets (for the street)
Did I miss anything?
Donovan aluminum block
Callies magnum X-S 4340 crankshaft
Carillo billet rods
JE pistons
Custom ported AFR 215 RR heads
Hogan sheet metal intake, AS&M Monoblade TB
Solid roller camshaft somewhere around 24x/25x (daily driver cam)
Jesel shaft mount rockers
Crane Endure-X lifters
FAST engine management
Canton oil pan
Hooker LTs and Mufflex 4" catback
Huge fuel system and injectors
BMR upper and lower control arms, k-member, LCAs, panhard bar and STB
Madman torque arm
HAL 12-way shocks
Eiback drag launch springs
Brembo brakes
12-bolt with all the bells and whistles
Denny's "Nitrous Ready" driveshaft
TH400 with GV overdrive and 4000 stall converter
Or if you have an T-56, Mcleod Street twin (rebuilt of course with cryogenically treated internals, forged shift forks etc)
Plus a Pro 5.0 shifter
Lightweight cowl hood
Racing seats, 5-point harness and roll cage
Bogart 15x10 and 15x1.3 racing wheels
ET streets (for the street)
Did I miss anything?
Last edited by Grease; Nov 20, 2003 at 09:36 AM.
Originally posted by kmook
lol you should have specified staying at 23* heads.
But since you didnt i'll say sb2.2 or brodix canted heads on a 383 and go 9s.
lol you should have specified staying at 23* heads.
But since you didnt i'll say sb2.2 or brodix canted heads on a 383 and go 9s.
Joe Overton went 9.7s with regular AFR 227s.
Grease, a Donovan block is not a LT1 block.
I say it can be done with less cubes than 383. I honestly believe a 350/355 can do it and still be streetable....but the question is what do you consider streetable?
It will have to be lightweight, the right suspension set up, track prep to hold the fun, and the right H/C set up. Weight less than 3350 will be needed.
Local guy went 11.4s@119.5 with a miss at 6200/6300 with a 355 set up. Get that miss fixed and he is at 11.2s at least. Take out the rest of his interior and more cam and head and I believe he will be there....it might even take a solid roller set up but it can be done.
It will have to be lightweight, the right suspension set up, track prep to hold the fun, and the right H/C set up. Weight less than 3350 will be needed.
Local guy went 11.4s@119.5 with a miss at 6200/6300 with a 355 set up. Get that miss fixed and he is at 11.2s at least. Take out the rest of his interior and more cam and head and I believe he will be there....it might even take a solid roller set up but it can be done.
I went 11.11 with 447RWHP & 470RWTQ so a 383 should put that out. I did take the back seat out but other than that it is heavier than a stock f-body with the 6 point bar and sfc. and the 25lbs N20 bottle



