I did this mod to the low beams on my 95 today. There is a difference and the light, I will attest is pure white, not blue. When on high-beam, you can compare them to the high beam right next to them and they look much, much, whiter.

I got some other ideas as well. As long as we are doing this, I think I might go over to a scrap yard and get some used lamps so that I have extras in the future.

I also wondered what would happen if you combined the low-beam bulb with the high-beam lens (the "fresnel" or optics of the lenses are different from high to low beam - those bars and lines on the inside of the lens.) ? The high beam tends to point the light out in front of the car and the low beam tends to spread it more closely to the vehicle. If you did high beams in all 4 positions and put low-beam bulbs in the high beam housings, you might have something. Of course, you might have something that gets people flashing their brights at you too.

I used JB-Quick to hold the bulbs in. Being that the stockers have some side support from that collar, I wanted at least equal strength. This will pose an issue if I ever have to remove the bulb again but I may just do that junkyard search for sealed units and put those away for later.

 

dave1w41, I'm glad to see it worked out for ya. That's great.

 

Nice job on the lights. Along with doing the bulbs feeding the lights directly using a relay would also give an improvment. Drawing more power through the headlamp switch is not a good idea. That switch gets hot enough as it is. Drawing directly from the power feed on the fender using a relay is the way to go.

FYI - I just bought 1 Sylvania low beam because of one headlight going dead. It was much brighter then the stock old unit on the other side. You could see that the glass was "darker" on the old one. Why I don't know, it just does. I replaced the other side also. Big difference. I also aim the lights a little higher for more distance, but not high enough to cause oncomming traffic to flash me.

My car looks kinda funny now though. The low beams look different from the high beam units, which are also "darker" with the lights off. You can see the difference. I guess what I'm say is if you dont want to tear apart your headlights, Sylvania units are the way to go.

 

I'm looking at the diagram to wire the headlights to the relays...I thought the factory wiring already did this? If I bypass the stock set up what wires do I tap into to trigger the low/high beams? Also I wired the fog lamps to stay on when the high beams are on through the stock wiring....how do I do this with this set up?

-B

 

It looks like you want the yellow wire for the low beams. I've added a wiring diagram to my page. Go back and like at it.

http://www.sps1.com/Head%20Lamp%20Mod.htm

 

If we are talking about the same thing, modifying the "mini-quad" headlamps with 9006 and 9005 Silverstar bulbs......

I don't think that the additonal wattage of these bulbs is of any significance to the headlamp system. It would be one thing if we were going 25% over the stock capacity of the headlamp system. These are actually the same bulbs that are already in the mini-quad enclosures with 5 additional watts per bulb. I would bet that the actual additional current draw is not even measureable. Most of the "heat" in the headlamp switch comes from the dimmer resistor and the illumination lighting. Neither of which are affected by adding current flow at the headlamp circuit.

 

I totally agree, all electrical devices are designed with extra safety measures, including the wiring and fuses. Think about it, if you had a bad ground going to 1 or all of the head lights, your lights would be dim, and causing more of a current (AMP) draw nothing melts or burns up, if anything the fuse would blow. If this fuse doesn't blow, the design of the wiring and its devices such as the switch are ok. Like Dave said your only going up 5 watts. 98 and newer cars use 60 and 65 watt bulbs and the circuit wiring to the switch is the same. No relay.

 

Ok guys. One question that I'm a little confused about.

I've got a set of 9006's and 9005's. I've already gutted the low beams and installed the 9006s...the silicon is hardening as I type. I thought wiring up a new relay with in-line amp was basically necessary to enjoy all these lights have to offer?

I've bought the relays, the amps, and all the wire...I'm ready to do the wiring (once I figure out how)...but it seems you guys don't think it necessary? Or, am I reading it wrong?

Simplified question...new powered wiring set up or use stock?

Thanks

DJ

 

Stock unless you go to much higher wattage [which would technically be illegal anyway...]

 

Does Wagner make a comparable bulb to the 9006ST, maybe the wagner 9006BL, although it might be that bluish crap. Maybe someones compaired different brands?

 

Unless you were doing some radical mod, you don't need to mess with the stock wiring. There is some leeway in that circuit. If it is over-loaded you will get a warning, of sorts. The headlamp circuit on every car is protected by a self-resetting circuit breaker. If the headlamp switch gets overloaded, the headlamps will go out suddenly and without warning. The good thing is that they will come back on in 5-8 seconds so if you are careful, you won't hit anything. It takes almost a short to ground to get that circuit breaker to trip. These bulbs are not enough to be an issue.

 

Would the lights get any brighter with a higher gauge wiring?

-B

 

Probably not.. the wiring doesn't really run that far to have 'voltage drop' of any appreciable amount..[the only thing heavier gauge wire would help]

 

Great! Yea, I did the low beams today and MAN I LOVE these new lights at night!! Not so much brighter...though they slightly are...they just add clarity. The road is more illuminated, which comes in handy on Southern back roads...and road signs and such are much more legibal and clear!

I'll do the HIGHS tomorrow and can only IMAGINE the difference.

Thanks again for the instructions, BlackDog!

DJ

 

Another satisfied customer!!!
I'm glad it worked for ya.