You're really going to need a cam to to get into 12's. I recommend the cc503. Then i'd do headers and work on the suspension. Boxed LCA's, relocation brackets, and a set of slicks. You should be deep into the 12's with this setup.

 

Im thinking ill go with the pace str long tube's + summits hotcam setup for around 500 i think for the package, then a good tune <---need help on wich is best + what should i have them set the idle at? + some 4:10 gears and i think my *** will be happy for a while, and if not ill just throw on a 75shot to be safe

 

Also please send me some links on the cc503 and the GM847 cam, tks

 

I don't know why a LE1 head & cam package is $1200, coated Pacesetter LT's & ory are $550, GM Motive gears are $200, a set or 1.6 rrs' can be had for about $250 and a gasket set is about $200. So that's a total of $2400, so why can't it be done?

 

le1 head cam pack, 1200?? send me links

 

Well I guess you might have proved me wrong. What about shipping charges? Is the OP doing all the labor himself? Does he have a place to do it with the proper tools?

It can be done like you said if he already has a place, tools, and the know how to do a head, cam, gear swap

 

The recipe is fairly easy...for 11s :-)

 

I've yet to read some one mention a rear. We all know the 10 bolt isn't going to handle launches on a 6spd with drag radials. Hell im on my 4th and final 10 bolt because of that.

 

Exactly, and your going to nail those shifts on a 6 speed, granny any and your not going to hit 12's.

 

my 10 bolt posi is going to slow me up? so what is better?

 

You don't need a cam to get in the 12's. I run 12.70's @ 105MPH all day in good air with a '96 Z28 convertible A4. Mods are K&N CAI, MAC mids, Magnaflow 3" cat, the dreaded flowmaster catback, yank SS3600 converter, 4.10's, 160 stat and a tune. I remove the front sway bar, spare, and jack and run 26x10.5 Et streets on the stock salad shooters with cheap summit 15x4's up front. The car even ran a bunch of 13.3 @100 with just the CAI, converter, 4.10's and et streets.

 

Apples to Oranges. I don't know anyone willing to take the risk of running 4.10's with a pair of 10.5 Et street's on their 10 bolt/m6 car. That sounds like a recipe for disaster. I'm leaning towards a 9in. if I keep the m6 idea for a drag car.

 

1. k&n cai
2. smooth elbow
3. no screen in maf
4. throttle body air foil
5. throttle body bypass
6. no cat
7.flowmaster 80 series catback
8. tt2 with new 275 tires
9.160*thermo
10. hypertech programmer

2.06-----60 ft (still soft launch b/c of spin)
5.7614---330 ft
8.7685---1/8 et
81.81----1/8mph
11.3681--1000 ft
13.5761--1/4 et
101.72---1/4mph

 

10bolt/3.42 passes on slicks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uB9aoNO1q0E

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRVz-Eq4YY0

 

it will slow you up when it breaks. And it will with clutch dumps on radials

Yes now show that same rear with a few more clutch dumps and it will go boom. The 10 bolt is the weak point and will be no matter how much beefing you do.