LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Jet-Hot LT owners, sealing the slip fitting?

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Old May 5, 2004 | 10:12 PM
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Bryan 94 Z28's Avatar
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Jet-Hot LT owners, sealing the slip fitting?

OK, so I finished installing the LT's a few weekends ago, but the #1 primary slip fitting did NOT seal up at all. I scuffed it a bit to get it to slip in a bit easier (didn't want to go in at all), but now it just ticks and ticks.

I tried pulled it back out and putting copper RTV in there, but it didn't help much if at all (and yes, I did allow 24 hours cure time).

Is there a way to get a band clamp on there? I remember looking at it and thinking that the primary was welded pretty much all the way up to the end of the slip fitting area, and that there wasn't much of a way to get a clamp on it. Have any of you successfully put a band clamp on there, and if so, how did you do it? What size did you use? Did it help seal it up better?

Thanks for any help.
Old May 5, 2004 | 10:53 PM
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http://www.market-plan.com/jcw/2149.htm

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...p&pagenumber=2
Old May 5, 2004 | 11:06 PM
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I didn't seal it, and no problems so far.
Old May 6, 2004 | 05:04 PM
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Bryan 94 Z28's Avatar
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That's fine and good, but from what I remember when inspecting the driver's side header before installing it, the #1 primary is welded to the other 3 tubes all the way up to the opening where the tube slips in. This would make it impossible to get that sleeve over both the slip-in tube and the primary it mates with, unless that weld was cut.
Old May 6, 2004 | 07:41 PM
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Had exactly the same problem. Summit racing has a "T" clamp that is the exact size for the header. When you get it you can take the nut off and open it enough to slide it over the header pipe. Replace the nut and slide it down over the seam. I used a very long screw driver and kept tapping it until it was in place. Used a 3/8" box end wrench and tightened it. So far it has worked great. I did the whole process from above. Make sure when you put it on that the nut is facing the drivers side so you can get at it from on top
Old May 6, 2004 | 07:54 PM
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Do you have a part # for the T-clamp?
Old May 6, 2004 | 09:51 PM
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5.7LT1Formula's Avatar
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just got done helping my friend install his. he used "Muffler Mender" stuff got as hard as a rock and will not be coming loose or leaking anytime in our life time!
Old May 6, 2004 | 09:53 PM
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Never had an issue personally, but the T-clamp would be the way to go
Old May 6, 2004 | 10:23 PM
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Part # is SUP-094-1750

and cost is $9.88 plus shipping. I had mine shipped two day air so it cost almost as much as the part.
Old May 6, 2004 | 11:21 PM
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Bryan 94 Z28's Avatar
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Originally posted by BLDun
Part # is SUP-094-1750

and cost is $9.88 plus shipping. I had mine shipped two day air so it cost almost as much as the part.
Oh hell, I can go to NAPA and pick one of those up for about $3.50!

Thanks for the help guys, I'll try it out this weekend and see if I can get that t-bolt clamp jammed in there.
Old May 6, 2004 | 11:27 PM
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JB Weld
Old May 7, 2004 | 11:58 AM
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Originally posted by turbo_Z
JB Weld
Is that what you used on yours? It won't melt away from the high temps? Also how hard is it to remove that stuff if you gotta take it off?

Do you think guys think that the t-bolt clamp would work better then one of those band clamps? I would think a band clamp would work better because it is wider.
Old May 7, 2004 | 12:51 PM
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Originally posted by drewstealth
Is that what you used on yours? It won't melt away from the high temps? Also how hard is it to remove that stuff if you gotta take it off?

Do you think guys think that the t-bolt clamp would work better then one of those band clamps? I would think a band clamp would work better because it is wider.
Actually I have not used the stuff on exhaust though I might try it on my collectors here in a couple weeks b/c im done screwing with RTV and everything else. my reply was almost meant more as a joke but I was hoping somebody else would have commented on it b/c I am curious as to if it would hold up the temps. As far as removing it is concerned.. i believe after applying JB weld, it would almost be impossible to get off.
Old May 7, 2004 | 01:59 PM
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Oh okay. Well do you think a band clamp or a T-bolt clamp would work better to try and seal that up?
Old May 7, 2004 | 02:13 PM
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Have all of you that had the problems with the slip-fit leaking the ones that sanded down the pipe? I just forced mine in and it hasn't leaked at all yet (knocking on wood).



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