It's GOT to be the EGR...

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Jul 12, 2003 | 03:46 PM

#16

Z284LIFE

Registered User

Joined: Mar 2002

Posts: 28

From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

My car used to stutter like that all the time, turned out to be the PCM, it had lots of carbon build up and other ****. I replaced it and the car worked great

good luck

Jul 12, 2003 | 03:49 PM

#17

RRios8191

Banned

Joined: Jun 2003

Posts: 63

From: Columbus, OH

Quote:

Originally posted by Z284LIFE
My car used to stutter like that all the time, turned out to be the PCM, it had lots of carbon build up and other ****. I replaced it and the car worked great
good luck

Did you mean PCV valve?

Jul 12, 2003 | 05:51 PM

#18

chevyboy_z28

Registered User

Joined: Aug 2002

Posts: 470

From: Detroit, MI

Re: ?

Quote:

Originally posted by RRios8191
Did you mean PCV valve?

yea, he had to. when the pcv goes and the car starts running sloppy, you end up thinkin everything EXCEPT the pcv...and its one of the easiest/cheapest repairs

Jul 12, 2003 | 07:38 PM

#19

Carlos01SS

Thread Starter

Registered User

Joined: Jan 2003

Posts: 382

From: Cypress, Orange County CA.

Quote:

Originally posted by alex-z28
Hi Carlos, I have 93 z and I just changed my EGR valve. On the 93 f bodys the fuel lines are in the way of the EGR valve. First disconnect the the battery and relieve the fuel pressure. What I did I took the 4 bolts that hold the fuel rail out, then I pulled all the injectors out, make sure that you disconnect the electrical connectors and label them so you know where they go back on. Then remove a bolt that holds down the fuel lines its by the intake on drivers side, this will allow you to move the fuel rail more then all I did is I lifted the and pulled the fuel rail out of the way it was sitting on the top of the intake. From there I was able to get to one of the bolts on drivers side the other bolt I got the from the passenger side you have to feel your way to it. You have to remove the old gasket that is going to be tricky because there is not much room. Use a mirror to see how are you doing back there. Then install a new gasket and EGR valve and put everything back together.

Thanks Alex!

I dunno if I want to tackle the EGR at this time, I'm kind of tired of my car right now...Maybe I'll have someone else do it for me, I would rather pay than do it myself at this point...I'm

tired...

Jul 12, 2003 | 11:26 PM

#20

CoUnTryMuZiCZ28

Registered User

Joined: Jul 2003

Posts: 1,416

From: Davie FL

I had a 96 Z before and had the hesitate prob. I replaced the egr because it threw a code in the obd2. I sold it for a 95 Z and it had the same problem so I replaced the egr and the pcv valve but no luck it still does the same thing. Opti i was told was fine. Anyone help me? What could i try in my spare time that might not cost me anything, im kinda tapped out. anything i can clean? also my car idles at about 1100 RPM and my old car the 96 auto idled at about 800 or so, whats the problem with that? I dont believe its a vacume leak but how could i find out for sure? Thanks

Jul 13, 2003 | 02:03 AM

#21

Carlos01SS

Thread Starter

Registered User

Joined: Jan 2003

Posts: 382

From: Cypress, Orange County CA.

Quote:

Originally posted by CoUnTryMuZiCZ28
I had a 96 Z before and had the hesitate prob. I replaced the egr because it threw a code in the obd2. I sold it for a 95 Z and it had the same problem so I replaced the egr and the pcv valve but no luck it still does the same thing. Opti i was told was fine. Anyone help me? What could i try in my spare time that might not cost me anything, im kinda tapped out. anything i can clean? also my car idles at about 1100 RPM and my old car the 96 auto idled at about 800 or so, whats the problem with that? I dont believe its a vacume leak but how could i find out for sure? Thanks

You could buy the throttle body rebuild kit(4 gaskets, about 40.00 from the dealer), then take out the throttle body with the IAC valve, then unscrew everything, hose it all down with throttle-body cleaner spray(I used STP brand), you will see a whole lot of gummed up areas, as well as the IAC valve probably filled with carbon. After you remove the TB & IAC valve(it's attached, underneath the TB), clean the whole thing out, scrub it, or soak it, doesn't matter how you do it, just get it as clean as possible, then put it back together & reinstall with the new gaskets, this will make a great difference. I'm not exactly mechanic savvy, and I removed the TB assmbly cleaned it out put it back together in about 3 hours. You can do it as well, and your car will thank you for it.

Jul 13, 2003 | 11:31 AM

#22

CoUnTryMuZiCZ28

Registered User

Joined: Jul 2003

Posts: 1,416

From: Davie FL

Is there anything else i can do cheap? Or something that doesnt cost anything. Ill try the TB rebuild kit a little later down the road. Thanks. Hey i have TB cleaner too what if i just sprayed it inside of there, would that help?

Jul 13, 2003 | 12:04 PM

#23

cals400ex

Registered User

Joined: Sep 2002

Posts: 656

From: Staunton, Illinois

i would just take the throttle body off and clean the iac. its almost guaranteed that it will be dirty. while your at it, just clean out the throttle body. i would also clean your mass air flow sensor on the 94's on up. its weird because i had the same problem when it was cold outside. i replaced the tps, map sensor, coil, oxygen sensors, cleaned iac and throttle body, icm, and cleaned and inspected egr valve. i still had the problem. when the warmer weather came around, the problem went away so i have no clue what happened. good luck