On the late lt1's there is a well formed tip / arrow on the hub, i usually point it the keyway, with no key just for GP. It should not matter as the hub and balancer is zero balance on the late LT1's.

 

crap, im not sure if its a key or not.. the hub doesnt have anything that would match up to it, you got any pics i could see to verify?

 

No pics off hand let me see if i can find one. What year is your LT1?

 

well, i guess i'll head out to the garage in a few minutes, im freaked out, ive spent 2 years pouring money into this project , lol, if i screwed it up in one day i'm a complete idiot. It actually wasnt my idea to pull out the hammer, you know how some dads are :P BRUTE FORCE WILL WORK!! =/

 

problem is i dont know the exact year , it had cast iron heads on it when i bought it, and it was never inside a car.. so im guessing it must have been made for an impala/roadmaster 94-96?

 

http://shbox.com/1/hub.jpg there is the hub
http://shbox.com/ci/balancer_hub.jpg

Go get the stun gun you got hidden in your closet ans zap dad in the kidneys!

All the stuff i am talking about is for a late LT1 mid late 90's

 

crap. ok im confused, i got an underdrive pulley from march, and apparently it goes first, then the balancer, thats what the paper said that came with it to install it, that pic u got there only shows the balancer, is this all ok ?

 

ah... thats why i cant reach yet, i got the under drive pulley on the hub already, and holy **** i dont think ill be able to get it off. ugh, this is just getting worse by the minute =p

 

Take a deep breath and take the pully or balancer off so you got a bare hub. Much easier to work with. Make sure to lube the hub and crank good if you pull it off. It goes on a bit hard just dont beat the crap out of it. (too much) A few nice blows with a block of wood and you should be able to get the bolt in without the thick washer. If dad twitches hit him with the stun gun again!

 

ok heres what happen : I went out to the garage, stopped using the large washer, the bolt reached, so i tightened it, and it went in a bit, tightened it till the crank started moving, but theres still silver i see thats sticking out rather than the t hing being flush to the crank, is this wrong? mebbe it goes in more -- newbie me :O

 

Where are you located in Chicago? I am in Plainfield... Just get yourself a long 7/16 -20 threaded rod so you can bottom out the threaded rod into the crank so there is no chance of stripping the crank threads.... I ask where you are cause I can get some for you......

 

jefferson park

 

It may be too late, but this is how the hub should be oriented. The raised line on the hub should be in the same position as the dot on the crank gear. If you lined it up with the keyway, that's wrong. It probably won't bother you, though. There is usually no balancing done at the front of the engine. You won't be able to use the pulley arrow to tell you what position the pistons are in, though (unless you re-mark it by however much it is off).

IMO, pulling the hub on with the bolt is a bad idea. Talk to the people that have stripped the threads out of the front of crank by doing it and you will know what I mean. Better to use a threaded rod, washers and nut to pull the hub on (that's the exact premise of how the proper hub install tool works).

 

I would for sure listen to Shoebox before most people here including myself. He set me straight on a simple, boy do i feel stupid, error.

 

Yup, no stripped threads here, but i did manage to break the hub bolt into 2 pieces in the crank. No chance to get it out, (welded to it and everything). Found out after the fact, that bolt should be replaced everytime it is used as it stretches after each tightening. Mine was going on for the 3rd or 4th time with the original bolt.