...Ok, I really messed up. I was correct in doing a search before I asked
any questions but what I did do wrong was start the job BEFORE I did the
search. BIG mistake. Is there anyway that I can get my car to start, run,
turn off & run excessories when I don't have an ignition swith {the one in the steering column up by the steering wheel, I don't have an Actuator rod from the
key cylinder, I also don't have the ignition switch that is on top of the steering
column under the dash I took it off by undoing that clip that holds it in and everything fell out. I don't care about using what used to be the accessaries side of the switch {where the key goes}. I'm using the termainology
from Shoebox's web site, component location views, # 61 ignition & dimmer switch. If possible I'd like to do this with a push button starter & toggle switch/switches. I also have a diagram from GreenDemon that shows where he hooked wires to using one of Shoebox's diagram but I believe that I removed to much to use it. PLEASE HELP, what can I do??? Do I have to buy
more parts??? I also don't care about anti thief stuff {I know this isn't recommened}..... THANKS A BUNCH,
Bill aka Billsbird

 

You can use the ignition switch schematic for whatever year car you have (you don't say) to wire up switches to make it work. If you already have a diagram on how to do it, but say you have removed too much wiring, I don't know how I can help. I don't know what you have removed. If you have removed the VATS, you will have to buy a bypass module to simulate the signal for fuel enable to the PCM (not talking about bypassing the key pellet) or get the VATS programmed out. You will also have to bypass the theft deterrent relay. Maybe you should get a Helms manual while they are on sale (if you car is 1995 or earlier).

 

Ok I'm not Injuneer Or Shoebox but I'll try to help.

Assuming it's similar to a '94 then it's pretty simple.

Buy a three way rocker switch for run/off/accessories. Then buy a seperate push button switch for start.

Red is main power you'll have to connect some new wire to make it longer to reach wherever you want the switches mounted and also split it to go to both switches.

Pink is for run position and if you cut off and no longer have the original connector that plugged into the factory ignition switch then I believe there's two that you have to connect together into one and run it to the 3 way rocker switch.

There's a brown wire that gets power for the acc position.

Then there's a big yellow wire that gets power from the red wire to start. That should connect to your push button switch.

The three way rocker switch should probably have four terminals and will be something like

****** ___ **** run
Pink**--|***|---
Red** --|***|**/ off
brown*--|***|__\
Ground --|___|*** acc

Of course the exact location will depend on the switch you buy, but Red will be the main power to feed the switch and it should say what goes where on the backside of the switch.

Your push button start switch will probably just have two being a red and yellow.

Of course some pictures and a lot more information would really help know what you have and don't have to work with.

 

Just a helpful hint here..... and I know Shoebox agrees. It is NOT a good idea to call out individuals in the topic. If you really want those individuals to address the problem, send them a PM. If you want everyone to answer, just put a clear, informative topic up, and don't name names. Some of the many other people who are capable of answering these questions might take calling out individuals as a negative thing.

By the way, this isn't a question that I feel I am best equipped to answer anyway.

Just a "helpful hint"......

 

...Yes you are right Injuneer, I basically insulted others on the board. In fact, Green Demon who I was in contact with by way of instant messaging told me EXACTALLY what to do but I was 'so lost' as to what was going on that I didn't even reallize it! Thank You for bringing the proper proceedures to my attention

RMC & Shoe Box, Thank You . Yes it is a '94. I now have it running after days of messing with it. I still have to get the 3 way switch as no one in my town carries it. But its Mickey Moused together so I can drive it down to get one. And I bought a Haynes Manual & a volt, ohm meter. With the ohm meter I got the correct ohm's reading to get the resistor to bypass the key pellet {thanks to your web site Shoe Box}. I must not have taken out the VATS {whatever that is} because I've driven the car.
Thanks Again, Bill