Injector question
Injector question / Removing emissions
I'm reassembling my motor finally, and changed out the injector seals. First, the manual I have says that the seals that go into the intake are brown, but the ones that came in the FelPro intake gasket set I got are black...probably just a color difference between GM parts and aftermarket?
Second question, in this diagram, I am missing part number 22 on two of my injectors. Is it of any importance, it doesn't seem to do anything, as it sits behind the rubber seal. Just want to know if I need to get some before I fire it up. http://shbox.com/1/fuel_rail_94-97.jpg - diagram
Third, what's the best way to seat the injectors into the intake? I seem to have got the front injectors in all the way, but the back ones seem to not want to go in as far as the front. Just keep pushing away? Or just screw in the rail?
Another question I have, I am removing emission equipment from this car. I have already removed the AIR pump, and will be removing EGR. I'm not doing it because I feel it's hurting performance, I just don't have the money to replace all these parts as they are becoming worn out. It is simpler to remove them and replace them with parts that won't wear out. Anyways, what all sensors can I remove and which vacuum lines etc? Obviously, I can remove the EGR solenoid, valve, and hose. Can I remove the EVAP solenoid? Do I just need to cover all the lines that it leaves open (fuel pressure regulator, intake, etc)? What other sensors and equipment can I remove at the same time? Information on that would be appreciative.
Thanks,
Nick
Second question, in this diagram, I am missing part number 22 on two of my injectors. Is it of any importance, it doesn't seem to do anything, as it sits behind the rubber seal. Just want to know if I need to get some before I fire it up. http://shbox.com/1/fuel_rail_94-97.jpg - diagram
Third, what's the best way to seat the injectors into the intake? I seem to have got the front injectors in all the way, but the back ones seem to not want to go in as far as the front. Just keep pushing away? Or just screw in the rail?
Another question I have, I am removing emission equipment from this car. I have already removed the AIR pump, and will be removing EGR. I'm not doing it because I feel it's hurting performance, I just don't have the money to replace all these parts as they are becoming worn out. It is simpler to remove them and replace them with parts that won't wear out. Anyways, what all sensors can I remove and which vacuum lines etc? Obviously, I can remove the EGR solenoid, valve, and hose. Can I remove the EVAP solenoid? Do I just need to cover all the lines that it leaves open (fuel pressure regulator, intake, etc)? What other sensors and equipment can I remove at the same time? Information on that would be appreciative.
Thanks,
Nick
Last edited by 97LT1Boy; Apr 12, 2006 at 12:19 AM. Reason: added question
Re: Injector question
ttt.... any help on this? seems that if i were to ask which cam i should by, or what to do with $1000 i'd have 20 replies! < end sarcasm >
thanks to anyone that can help me out
nick
thanks to anyone that can help me out
nick
Re: Injector question / Removing emissions
I'll skip the first part since I don't know anything about the color of the FelPro O-rings. I would suspect you need the spacers (#22) that are missing, but that's just an assumption.
Did you lightly coat the O-rings with some oil? Do you have the injectors in the rails already? Are you simply trying to seat the injectrs in the intake manifold holes? Do one side at a time. Try and get all 4 injectors "started" (O-rings fully within the manifold) and apply uniform pressure to both ends of the one rail to puch them down into the manifold. When you get one side in, repeat the procedures on the other side. I would not recommend forcing them in with the rail bolts under any circumstances. Are you sure the holes in the intake are clean?
AIR: You can remove the line from the intake duct to the AIR pump (5/8" vacuum cap on the air duct connection), the AIR pump and bracket, the hard and soft lines from the AIR pump to the manifolds (block the holes in the manifold with the correct plugs.... 18mm might work), and remove all the vacuum lines and other hardware associated with the 96/97 systems (block the vacuum nipple so it doesn't leak). The exact details of "other hardware' depends to some extent on whether you car had the AIR pump recall performed.
You will get codes for deleting the AIR system. They will need to be programmed out of the PCM.
EGR: Remove the vacuum lines (vacuum cap for the vacuum nipple), the EGR solenoid (sets a code - put a resistor in the harness or have it programmed out), the EGR valve (blocking plate required on manifold), and the EGR riser tube from the exhaust manifold (blocking plate required) to the intake manifold (blocking plate required). You will get a code for no EGR flow. You either need to install a spoof circuit involving the MAP sensor, or have the diagnostic programmed out of the PCM.
If you have all this stuff "programmed out", you will get "system not ready" flags when they plug an emissions computer into your ALDL connector.
EVAP: You would remove the solenoid and cap the vacuum nipple on the side of the throttle body. Then put a resistor in the harness connector. Remove the lines through the fender liner to the hard line under the driver's door, remove the EVAP canister in the dirvers rear fender (get a vented gas cap, or put a filter over the vent line from the gas tank that goes to the EVAP canister. You may notice a fuel smell at the rear of the car.
Hard to understand what line you would leave open involving the fuel pressure regulator when you remove these three systems..... there is not connection from any of them to the FPR. You can't remove the vacuum line from the side of the intake manifold to the FPR... that isn't "emissions", that part of the fuel pressure control system.
And you are doing this because the systems are worn out? Doesn't really make any sense at all. If they are "worn out", they would be setting codes and turning on the SES light. You could bypass the diagnostics without removing all the components, as outlined above.
Originally Posted by 97LT1Boy
Third, what's the best way to seat the injectors into the intake? I seem to have got the front injectors in all the way, but the back ones seem to not want to go in as far as the front. Just keep pushing away? Or just screw in the rail?
Another question I have, I am removing emission equipment from this car. I have already removed the AIR pump, and will be removing EGR. I'm not doing it because I feel it's hurting performance, I just don't have the money to replace all these parts as they are becoming worn out. It is simpler to remove them and replace them with parts that won't wear out. Anyways, what all sensors can I remove and which vacuum lines etc? Obviously, I can remove the EGR solenoid, valve, and hose. Can I remove the EVAP solenoid? Do I just need to cover all the lines that it leaves open (fuel pressure regulator, intake, etc)? What other sensors and equipment can I remove at the same time? Information on that would be appreciative.
Thanks,
Nick
Thanks,
Nick
You will get codes for deleting the AIR system. They will need to be programmed out of the PCM.
EGR: Remove the vacuum lines (vacuum cap for the vacuum nipple), the EGR solenoid (sets a code - put a resistor in the harness or have it programmed out), the EGR valve (blocking plate required on manifold), and the EGR riser tube from the exhaust manifold (blocking plate required) to the intake manifold (blocking plate required). You will get a code for no EGR flow. You either need to install a spoof circuit involving the MAP sensor, or have the diagnostic programmed out of the PCM.
If you have all this stuff "programmed out", you will get "system not ready" flags when they plug an emissions computer into your ALDL connector.
EVAP: You would remove the solenoid and cap the vacuum nipple on the side of the throttle body. Then put a resistor in the harness connector. Remove the lines through the fender liner to the hard line under the driver's door, remove the EVAP canister in the dirvers rear fender (get a vented gas cap, or put a filter over the vent line from the gas tank that goes to the EVAP canister. You may notice a fuel smell at the rear of the car.
Hard to understand what line you would leave open involving the fuel pressure regulator when you remove these three systems..... there is not connection from any of them to the FPR. You can't remove the vacuum line from the side of the intake manifold to the FPR... that isn't "emissions", that part of the fuel pressure control system.
And you are doing this because the systems are worn out? Doesn't really make any sense at all. If they are "worn out", they would be setting codes and turning on the SES light. You could bypass the diagnostics without removing all the components, as outlined above.
Re: Injector question / Removing emissions
I am removing them because some parts are broken, there is an SES light on, and has been on since i've had the car. It is much easier reassembling the car without putting all of this stuff back onto it. EGR and AIR were the main systems I'm not putting back on. I just didn't know how the EVAP worked and stuff.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
chevroletfreak
LT1 Based Engine Tech
202
Jul 4, 2005 05:00 PM



