Ok kinda a newbie here with traditional questions.....o.k looking for close to 500 rwhp and have 180,000 on stock engine94 lt1. from bottom up what?? what kinda crank forged? conneting rounds? aluminun or steel ? pistons and rings..and how about cam.delco opti or a msd? what head workwill be needed? replace or rework? 383 stroker as a weekend toy.. on to other what about junk as stock 4l60e which by the way was rebuilt 3 times in under 12000 miles. what about torque coverter and shift kit do i realy need a stall? or just a lock up? what kinda beef do my new tranny guys need to make shure of doing. I can pull a motor or do stock rebuild but i dont no **** else other than i hate these little rice burners.

 

No prob on being a newbie, but alot of the questions you are asking have been thorougly discussed, you'll find gobs of information using the ole search button.

500rwhp in most cases (at least to remain driveable) will require nitrous or F.I.

Yes, you WILL need a stall.

Tranny work? Forget whatever shop you are using and go with CPT (http://www.cahallperformancetransmissions.com)

 

word. i dont even own an auto and i know this

 

+1

 

some of these links might help you...

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...light=500+rwhp
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...light=500+rwhp
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...light=500+rwhp
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...light=500+rwhp
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...light=500+rwhp
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...light=500+rwhp

As far as a motor...i would go with a victory racing short block(http://www.victoryracingengines.com/),some LE3 Heads With the LE3 Cam(http://www.eportworks.com/) all bolt ons,and ethier nitrous(http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/shop/home.php) or F/I

 

The heads, valvetrain, and intake are where you make your hp on an non-boosted combo. 500rwhp is not realistic for an NA LT1 unless you are prepared to spend some big bucks on relatively exotic top-end components. And you don't need 500rwhp to deal with rice-burners.

You will need a converter with a higher stall speed than stock, and that will lead to artificially low chassis dyno (rwhp) numbers. But with a decent head and cam package you will be in the 350-400rwhp range through a reasonable converter and will accelerate quicker than anything stock up to a ZO6. If your stock crank and rods are in decent shape, you could re-use them and get new pistons. With a 30 thousanths overbore, you will have a 355. This can make a very nice combo. If you want new bottom end parts, a stroker (383) will have more torque and be a bit quicker, all else being equal.

The bottom end parts are all standard SBC stuff, keeping in mind the one-piece rear main seal. The heads and intake are LT1 specific, though standard SBC heads and intakes can be adapted if you are after really serious power. As with any buildup, speed costs. Each increment in power costs more than the one before. The way to do this is start with a budget, otherwise you may not get where you expected and can waste a lot of time and money. Going with a proven package is best for 95+% of folks. Lloyd Elliot's heads + Bret Bauer's cam and valve train selections (referred to here as LE1, LE2, etc.) have a big following here. I don't think you can wrong with one of those proven packages.

Rich

 

I don't think 500rwhp on the street for an LT1 is that un-doable!

A good friend of mine has gotten to 460rwhp on a daily driven LT1 without going exotic.

385 Stroker w/ Scat 9000 Crank, Scat I beam rods, Forged flat top pistons. 1.6 Alm. roller rockers w/ AFR 195cc heads unported. Shorties without the cat and borla cat-back. Heads were milled to give him i think ~11.5 to 1 SCR. All on a cc305 cam! M6 and a stock 10-bolt! Pump gas. I think he spent around 10K for all his work on the car.

 

Sorry, all motor? I don't buy it.

cc305 in a stroker with unported AFR heads does not equal 460 rwhp.

 

They are very stand up guys, like Frank from CTP, and John from Fuddle. Another good choice is Joe Overton if you can't get Bret to make your cam for you. 500rwhp is gonna be much easier to obtain with some form of forced induction. I get the feeling you want to drive on the street to, so if you want a nice street car that can hual butt at the track I would recomend nitrious, but thats just me. STS makes some wonderful turbo kits as well. They would definately be worth looking into.

Any fast car should start with a goal, and a budget. Reading your post I wonder if 500rwhp is REALLY your goal, or if being faster then certain cars you know is your REAL goal. As rskrause said (in essence) making a ton of power doen't always equal a fast car. Cars that have parts that work to gether do. For instance a properly matched cam, and stall will make for a much faster car then one with the biggest peak HP# cam, and highest stall you can put into your car. Match your parts to achieve your goal and you will spend much less money in the long run.

Be realisitc in your goals, and patient in your time frame. I once saw the coolest sig it said "You can build your car fast, cheap, and reliable...pick two" it has followed me for many years. Same applies here. THere is a lot of really experiance builder, tuners, racers, and enthusists here. Javier97Z28, 2000GTP, rskrause, and shoebox to name a few then the vendors who support this board are always available to help you out.

Good luck!!! I hope that this helps you out as it did me.

 

I know, hard to believe. My jaw dropped when i asked what cam he was running! He used to come on this board alot until people started calling him a lier and told him its not possible.

I don't see why its that impossible.. as long as you got a dead on tune...

The day he pulled the 460rwhp he spent about 3 hours on the dyno tuning an already dyno tuned pcm.

Those AFRs flow between LE2 and LE3 heads, he's got more SCR. O, and he has the true LT4 intake.

 

It's not possible. Dead on tune or not.

Sorry, those are the facts. The cc305 is an itty bitty cam not capable of making those numbers all motor. The LT4 intake doesn't mean much either.

Why it's impossible? There's quite a few guys with much better heads, larger cams ground to match their heads, and dead on tunes, still not making "460 rwhp"

No offense, it just is what it is..

 

There are alot of not possible things people on this board claim, which is also why i stopped posting on this board for the most part.

Is it that impossible that someone figured out how to pull just alittle more out of the right parts to pull off just alittle more power. LE claims his LE3 kit to make about 410rwhp with a full bolt on M6 stock 10-bolt. I've seen EWP gain another 20-25 rwhp .. an lt4 intake does help, the intake runners are the big flaw with the LT1 intake, the LT4 intake helps to correct that and when we are talking almost 500Fwhp an intake can make 10-20 hp difference.. hey look at that, there is 450rwhp and thats with just 2 things different then the "norm" ..

 

You can forge everything and put in the best parts, but it won't add any power----just provide you with a platform that will accommodate the power.

I'm sure you can build a small block V8, 16 valve push rod engine that will put out 500 na RWHP---you can do alot with enough money.

 

Wrong, puting in Forged Alum. and forged lightweight steel parts WILL gain you power because your freeing up the power from the weight. Just like how M6 will net you more rwhp then A4 will. You also can get into polished crank surfaces gaining you power (very marginal) because the surfaces are smoother and cause less friction, or profiled crank couterweights to help cut through oil in the pan...

I may not have 10,000 posts on this site, but that doesn't mean i don't know how an engine works on an advanced level.

 

Ok buddy, whatever you say then

EWP gaining 25 rwhp on an LT1..... lol.