LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Ignition Issue: Key Won't Hold

Old 06-12-2017, 08:05 AM
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Ignition Issue: Key Won't Hold

While trying to start my car the other day, I got it started and then it died.

I then noticed that when I went to put the key in the forward position to activate the fuel pump and accessories, it would not hold. In turn trying to start the car it will start, but once the key returns to the run position it just moves back.

Would this be a ignition actuator/rod issue?

Thanks for the help in advance. I have never played around with ignitions or cylinder locks before.

Car is a 1994 Camaro Z28 Convertible 4 Speed Automatic.

Last edited by sconi; 06-12-2017 at 10:06 AM.
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Old 06-12-2017, 12:44 PM
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Re: Ignition Issue: Key Won't Hold

Sounds like you need to look at the switch (on the lower part of the column) and maybe make an adjustment. Either that or your switch is going out.

You should be able to find enough info in my guide for replacing the switch to help with your problem.
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Old 06-12-2017, 12:46 PM
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Re: Ignition Issue: Key Won't Hold

Hopefully, you don't have an excessive amount of weight hanging on your key ring.
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Old 06-12-2017, 01:21 PM
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Re: Ignition Issue: Key Won't Hold

Thanks shoebox,

I read your article, but by adjustment what do you mean?

I also noticed that you did talk about the gauge cluster failing and I have been noticing my speedometer jumping around once and a while when I drive over 60 mph. It will flutter by 10 mph, but then once I go slower or have a smooth road it seems to operate normal.
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Old 06-12-2017, 09:15 PM
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Re: Ignition Issue: Key Won't Hold

Originally Posted by sconi
Thanks shoebox,

I read your article, but by adjustment what do you mean?

I also noticed that you did talk about the gauge cluster failing and I have been noticing my speedometer jumping around once and a while when I drive over 60 mph. It will flutter by 10 mph, but then once I go slower or have a smooth road it seems to operate normal.
Note the slotted holes in the ignition switch bracket. Moving the switch back and forth controls the point where the rod moves the internals of the switch. That's the "adjustment". Same thing goes for the dimmer switch.
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