After getting the car back together, it ran for a good 2 1/2 months without issue; aside from being rich as a ****.

Anyhow, I was getting on the freeway and had some dude cut me off where I had to nail the brakes. I heard grinding sound from the rear when I hit the brakes. About 6 - 7 miles down the road (playing nice to get it home) the engine just cut off.

After getting it towed I inspected the car the next day to find the ignition fuse was blown. Replaced the fuse, ran the car for a good 5 - 10 min, figured it was dumb luck. Start on my way to work when the fuse blows again. Say another 4 - 5 miles from home. Let the car sit for a bit, pulled the 25 amp fuse from the horn and tried to limp it home. Got about a block before it blew again.

I looked around the headers and I can see anything that looks like its melting or getting too close. Does anyone have any ideas for where i could even start to look for this gremlin? Any help is a bonus, and I have looked over the electrical diagrams in chiltons and hayes and not seen anything that would help. Thx in advance.

 

Putting a big fuse in place of a smaller one is risky. But then maybe it would be easier to find a melted wire then it would be to find one spot rubbed through to the frame.

That fuse powers the coil, the ICM and the crank sensor. The first thing to do is identify which side of the fuse holder has 12 volts. Now go to the other side of the fuse contacts that DOES NOT have 12 volts with the fuse out. Set your meter to ohms and measure from the fuse contact to the frame or to the negative battery terminal, which ever is more convenient. It will probably measure very low. Now with the meter touching the contact and the frame, unplug one of the devices I listed at a time. If one makes the meter go high in resistance, that device is defective.

But chances are, you have a wire touching and you will have to find it. So, now since your meter still reads low resistance and all 3 devices are disconnected. Find C100. It's the black 10 pin connector right near the PCM. Disconnect it and see if the meter reading goes high. If so, your short is between the connector and 3 devices on the pink wire second from the end. Don't confuse it with the other pink wire on the top row left end. That is the injector supply voltage wire. The wire you want is on the bottom row second from the last wire on the right. The last wire on the right is brown.

You can now trace the pink wire from the connector to a splice located near injector number 3. From the splice, it takes off 3 ways to the coil, ICM and the crank sensor.

Happy hunting.

Dave

 

thx for the info. Im thinking this is going to be a nightmare.