I had a real bad stumble at idle, and now the car wont start. When i turn the key, it makes a click.buzz noise like it is trying to start, but will not. Is this the opti going out on me? I have juice from the battery.

 

By real bad stumpble...i mean RPMs fluctuated between 900 and 400...car also has a small stumble around 2500 last week, i just ahvent driven it since then

 

First, the click-buzz is a very good sign the battery is toast. The 'click' is the solenoid, but you don't have enough power to spin the starter.

You say you have juice from the battery, but NOTHING puts a strain on the system like the starter, so just because you have headlights or radio, it doesn't mean you have enough power to start the car.

ALSO, the battery may not be the problem - If the alternator's bad, you'll get the same symptoms.

I'd swap the batt. with another car, seeing if it'll start, and the go buy a battery if so.

IMMEDIATELY, Go to a parts store and have them them do an 'on the car' alternator test.

It'll tell you if you've fixed the problem or not.

Lots o' luck...




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1995 Red Z28, T-tops, A4, Flowmaster (Mmmm), Moroso CAI, TB-Bypass, A4 Perfomance Mode Mod, Built A4, Trans-Go, Under-car RAM air, 57k miles

 

Thanks for the reply...i will do that first thing in the morning!

 

You stumble is probably caused from the low voltage as well. When voltage goes down, so does fuel pressure, since you have an electric fuel pump. I would have the battery and the alternator checked as well as their connections.

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Rob B 95Z A4, !T96
Tech Page

 

Thanks for your help, with a new battery, the car starts fine. However, i still have that low rpm stumble. In fact, it stalled twice on me. It is ok so long as the car is moving, or i give it a little gas witht eh clutch in, but once it is completely idle, the rpms start to dip and flucuate...any ideas? Also, the car doesnt start quite right. While it does start, the rpms only go up to about 600 or so, the if i rev it, all is well.



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-Dave
'97 black Z28 M6
Flowmaster exhaust, SLP Intake, Pro 5.0, nr white face gauges, Headlight conversion (PIAA), !TB, !Cags, MAF descreen, 160* stat.
waiting for a few other parts but...
Hooker LT's, Muflex y-pipe, taylor wires, walbro intank pump, OBD1 conversion, hurst line-lock goin in next week.

 

It is normal to have some idle quality problems after you have disconnected your battery. The pcm will be relearning. You may be experiencing this or you still may have another problem. Give it a little time to see if the idle irons out. If you want to try to reset the IAC, do this:

Depress accelerator slightly

Start and release accelerator pedal, run engine for 5 seconds

Turn ignition "OFF" for ten seconds

Restart engine and check for proper operation

You may also have an IAC and throttle body passages that need cleaning.

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Rob B 95Z A4, !T96
Tech Page

 

I got the same problem.
Did you figure out the problem?
Mine appeared after I did and cam/ppd head/headers swap.
Only drove the car 5 to 6 miles and still have the same problem.
Should I continue to put more miles on it to see if it goes away?