Then you must have moved your wiring harness (or 95s are different) and are very lucky. When I pull my injectors with the rail the wiring harness that goes over them blocks it from coming off easy and theres not a lot of slack in it to get it over the fpr.

 

You said you backed off on the idle stop screw, and the IAC counts came back up to 15. Is it now idling at the proper RPM, and stable, or is it still unstable? Did you try backing the screw out a little farther to get the counts over 20?

 

The strange thing is it never really idled unstable. and it wont back out anymore, the throttle blades wont be touching the screw.

 

OK, one more time..... Is it now idling at the proper RPM?

 

When i backed the screw out yes, before i backed it out yes. Now that I redid the gasket on the plate on top of the throttle body. I don't know because I haven't had an opportunity to try it since I redid the gasket.

 

HI:

I mad a discovery to my problem, increase rpm/surging rpm. If I unplug the Brake power booster hose from the power booster ( yes I did test the hose, it is fine)the rpm does not surge. Once the power booster is plugged back in, the rpm surges from 800 to 2500.

So I unplugged the hose from the booster, plugged it, the idles goes up to 1100 and stays there. No surging. If I put the car in gear( reverse) the rpm jumps too 2500-3000 and stays there. So is the problem the Brake Power Booster?


nash

 

Yes most likely. If you can put a vacuum pump on the brake booster and see if it holds a vacuum.
My car I am sitting in it right now freescan shows a desired idle of 650 in park and a rpm of 650 iac of 21 in D my IAC is 17 desired idle 550 idle 550

 

spoke too soon whistling came back iac dropped like a rock. But this time I hit the back two injectors individually with pb blaster first one no change second one rearmost on passenger side whistling stopped immediately (IAC stayed low though) so I just picked up 8 injector o-rings from autozone and will be replacing as soon as it cools.

 

see so im not on crack ya just gotta get the car to act up before you can diag it

 

Nope replaced all 8 lower o-rings (no leaking from the top o-rings). lubed em up popped em in warmed car up iac counts still low (no idea if squeeling is gone yet) o-rings needed replacing though that one didn;t look any worse than the others. Once I get it aligned and re-inspected il'l look into it more, to make matters worse my MAF is rather dirty so im in speed density right now, Once I get it tuned right maybe itl'l clear up (doubtfull i'm thinking its the IAC itself). Perhaps the o-ring for the iac itself (I had it out to clean the passage and I gently cleaned the iac stopper). Maybe il'l pull it tomorrow to check. I wish it was dry here I'd rather be out on the tractor pulling stumps or using the bushhog with my weekend rather than dicking around with a bunch of o-rings.

 

My IAC hits 0 with AC off after warming up.. just barely This is after new injectors/o rings redoing the intake manifold, tb cleaned, new IAC, new MAF, new MAP etc etc. I don't know why mine bottoms out still. I went aroud with propane looking for vac leaks more than once and couldnt find any... Ive never adjusted the TB screw though, (yet never had low IAC counts before either). I also did the proper iac reset procedure too.

 

Ok, I thought I had it. Everything pointed to the power booster until I put the car in reverse. Now no matter what I do now the engine still rev`s/surges. Something just told me to try putting it into gear, we just noticed on the data master program the tcc dc and torque pressure is at 0 and remains there.

 

Ok, I disconnect from the power booster that leads to the manifold, plug that hose. The engine runs at 800 rpm. It was maintaining that idle until I put the car in gear.(reverse) Now not matter what I do now the rpm surges while in idle. I just tried to put the car in reverse the idle jumps to 1100 and stays there, I put the car in drive the RPM jumps to 2500rpm and stays there.

The most important thing is that, all this surging etc happens when the car warms up. Everything can be hooked up including the power booster and the car runs, There is a slight quiver in the tach, it bounces a little, but the car maintains a 800 rpm until it warms. Could it be something temp related ? What would that be?


nash

 

nash211:

Problem is, you highjacked someone elses thread, and are trying to turn it into yours. That works against the guy who made the original post, because it gets confusing whom people are talking to when they post answers or ask questions.

Best thing to do is start your own thread, not try and tack it onto someone elses. You have a better chance of getting answers that way.

 

Whoops sorry. You are right


nash