does anyone have a step by step guide to doing this so the car runs right and the o2 still gives the correct reading?

 

I don't have a step by step but its really not very hard.

Just remember to extend the wires on the harnes not the pigtail on the sensor.

I did a solder connection and covered it with shrink tubing.
I probably used approx. 12" for each wire.
It takes a little time but as long as you keep an eye on yourself (double check everything before you finalize the install) you should be fine.

 

you should use wires that have a similiar ohm (resistence) rating. The wires should be the same gauge (thickness) and should consist of just as many strands (should be several thin strands rather than a few thick ones). Don't cut and solder the o2 side, cut and solder the pcm/harness side. The darn things are kinda hard to get to to solder, just try and pull them out of the plastic tubing as much as you can so you can get a good bit of wire to work with (you'll see what I mean). Make sure you use electrical solder - radio shack should know which one is which.. in all honesty I've forgotten... mmmaybe rosin core is for electrical. Anyways using the wrong solder will make for corrosion I believe so make sure you use the right kind (there are two I believe: rosin core and flux core). Wrap them with some electrical insulator tape - no not the black plastic, that won't stop an electrical current just keep water out. You want to use that sticky, thick, almost cloth like black tape and then wrap it with some waterproof black plastic tape. I suppose heatshink would be alright but that's kinda a pain.. sometimes you forget to put the tube on before you solder.. then you have to get the hairdryer out there.. or the tube doesn't shrink down enough to make a good seal. Whatever, it's really not a big deal, just take your time.

That's about it, I lengthened and rerouted both sides and have had no problems to date. As for walkthroughs.. well.. no there aren't any but I don't see a need for one. It's pretty straight forward.

HTH

 

As you can see, there are many ways to skin this cat

When I installed my long tubes, me extending my O2 sensors was supposed to just be temporary because I do plan on buying O2 extensions if I ever get around to installing this other engine I have. Anyway, I extended the actual O2 sensor wires themselves (didn't want to cut into my factory wiring). I extended one 6" and the other 13". I did not solder them... I crimped them. A crimp is actually better than soldering when done properly.

My "temporary" extensions were done more than a year ago and are still holding up fine. Here are some pics... nothing special but shows the extended O2 sensors.

http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/exhaustday.htm

 

thanks brent, my buddy said the same thing as you about the connection is actually better when crimping the wires

 

The key though is you have to do them properly. It isn't difficult to do this... just make sure you are using the proper sized connector with the correct sized wire. Heck, I just made sure the wire I was inserting was as big or bigger than the wire that was on the O2 sensor and it was stranded wire.

 

Crimp better than solder? I just don't see how that can be so.

 

Yep, it's true At work, connections are primarily crimped. There is a special process and procedures and quality control checks for crimping. Rarely is anything ever soldered. Of course, the crimping tools aren't from Radio Shack... I saw one set that were used for crimping connections inside the generator and they cost $3,000

 

I soldered mine about a year ago with no problems. I'm always concerned a crimped connection could rattle loose (its happened on an alarm install) but thats probably if they are not done properly. So I have much better luck with solder. I even installed the extension on the O2 sensor side of the plug-in, I dont know why it would make a difference.
Whatever you do just take your time, be meticulous about it and you will do great.

 

Exactly! While this isn't to the level of rocket science (or nuclear power ) this is probably one of the more important crimp/solder joints you will ever make on your car so it is important that no matter what you do you take your time and make sure the connection is good!

 

I know what you are talking about, having been around power plants in the telephone industry. But for general purpose small stuff, I prefer to solder and use heat shrink tubing. I think it looks better, too (if in a place that might be seen). I have used both ways at times. I would trust my own crimp connections, because I am careful at what I do. Some I have seen others do, well let's say I would not have too much confidence in.

 

I just thought I'd add I did exactly what Brent did and never had a problem with the readings. The only downside is when it comes time new replace your O2 sensors, you have to extend your new O2 sensors also. I went ahead and bought an extender when I replaced my O2 sensors a few thousand miles ago.

 

And you think those people who can't put on a crimp connector can solder stainless steel wires???

 

I ended up crimping because the wires on the pigtail are not easy to solder. I couldn't get the solder to stick to the silver colored stranded wire the pigtails are made from. It would wick into the copper fine, but not the pigtail wire. I bought some weatherproof crimped ends and they work great. I also used stranded wire one size larger than the original pigtail wire.

 

True, the SS wires are tougher and your point is well taken. I think plug in extensions are the way to go for the O2s.