i have taken off my intake manifold 3 times and put it back on because of the dumb leak. it leaks in the left rear side...right by thr egr pipe. can anyone give me some advise on how to fix this F*ing problem once and for all? i have been using rtv black...anything better that someone can recomend me using?? plz help me tackel the dreaded intake leak!!!!

 

You could try cleaning it with acetone & using a bead of the Right Stuff. Also might want to carefully bend the little stainless tube away from the manifold a little. I actually ended up dremeling a trough in the block & manifold to hold a nice bead. It was a pita to do, but it worked.

 

i bent the tube back a little....but it still didnt work. i was thinking of possibly wraping the tube w/an exhaust wrap. i also read somewhere that you can punch alot of small holes in the manifold and block so that the silicone has something to "hold" on to. but i kinda dont really like the idea of punching small dents into my block. any ideas?

 

I had to do mine twice, the second time I got it right. Just make sure to put enough RTV and then sit it straight down onto the engine, (dont slide it back and forth to align the bolt holes, 'cause it will push most of the sealant out of the way). I let mine dry overnight before starting it to make sure the sealant had time to dry.

 

Are you sure its not warped back there. I know sometimes the egr tube gets hot enought to warp the manifold.

And if your sure its not warped you can score the surfaces so the RVT seals better.

 

Some people will use the copper RTV because of the heat. Make sure you put the a large enough bead as stated above. Put the intake on as soon as put down the silicone. I usually just barely snug down the bolts and let the silicone set up for a few hours and then I do the final torqueing. Sometimes you can squeeze all the silicone out if you torque it right away.

 

I've never done the manifold yet, but I would imagine following torque specs to a T would be helpful too....

 

i think it is 30lbs. of torque for the bolts....but how do i apply 30lbs.?

 

A good torque wrench is what you need. You set the torque to what you want it to be on the wrench, and itll start to click once it reaches 30 ft /lbs of torque.

 

i have a wrench....but i dont think it is a torque wrench. do you think it is a good idea to punch small dents in my intake and block to keep the silicone on??

 

Is "The Right Stuff" gasket maker better than the ultra-high temp black RTV? They're both made by permatex, so I'd consider both a quality product. Would you be able to use the Right Stuff around the ports and water jackets as well? TIA

 

When I did mine, I set the intake on and turned all the bolts till they were snug with just an extension. I let it sit for half an hour and then tightened them to 15 lbs in the tightening order it says in the service manual and then to 30 lbs. I used ultra copper permatex, and it never leaked. I also let it dry over night though.

Make sure when you bolt up the egr pipe to bend it as far away from the intake as possible, the heat from the tube weakens the silicone. Or do the next best thing and totally remove the egr system all together.

 

It is aptly named, use it on the front and rear of the manifold. RTV is not needed anywhere else for the intake.

 

So you don't need any RTV on the gaskets?

 

go to a toyota dealership and get there sealeant called FTP it is black in color. i swear to god you will not leak w/ a small bead on the intake. if you do i will buy it from you.