LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

I very interesting Cooling problem NEED HELP FROM THE EXPERTS!

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Old Jun 26, 2003 | 09:46 PM
  #1  
BlkScreaminMach's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 91
From: Wolcott, CT
Exclamation I very interesting Cooling problem NEED HELP FROM THE EXPERTS!

This problem is a rather interesting one. I am by far not a newbie to 4th gen fbodys or other GM cars. I even pulled my own motor when I did my 383

Here is the situation, when I drive the car around town, or even leave it at idle it goes to 185 degrees, which is the 2nd mark on the temp guage. When i mean by driving, im giving her 25% throttle and between 2K-3K rpms. NO ROMPING.

If i beat on her a little, like a good 4-6k romp she some times goes to 210 and stays there, unless im coasting and air is cooling her down. On the freeway im always 210, If i beat on her there i will get near 230 degrees. if I have a sustained rpm pull, such like up hill, and im at 3-3.5k for a bit ill go to 230.

Now I have a few ideas on what it may be, but i thought id run it by the experts if possible.

1) I have a CSI electric waterpump, i.e. constant flow
2) The radiator system was bleed
3) New fluid more coolant than water
4) The radiator is original ('94) but was hot tanked and flushed, only minor pin holes but nothing major
5) I have a new Air Dam
6) PCMforless has my fans kicking on at 160
7) I have a 160 thermo

*problems*
1) My coolant cross over tube which goes from the back of each cyl head and is a hard line then goes to rubber, well mine was cut by the previous owner, and now i gotta re attach. I think this is one of my issues that it got blocked off. EXPERTS: Could this be one of my possibiltes

2) Im running a radiator cap that is 2 lbs less than stock, I broke my stock cap, and a new one is on the way

3) The radaitor is original, will that be a issue. I would really like a be cool unit.

4) I may have to rebleed

Here are my mods, at least the majority of them.

383 LT1 6" rods with 3.75" crank w/ LT4 HotCam,
Ported and shaved LT1 heads 11.25 to 1 Compression
30lbs SVO injectors
1.6 Crane GR RR's, MSD blaster coil
Hi-po 4L60E
2000 PI stall
Trans-go shift kit
K&N CAI
Dynomax 1-5/8 coated shorties
CSI electric waterpump
ultralight starter,
PCMforless Tuning.
TB bypass
FULL emissions
TR6 Plugs capped to 0.035

I am really at odds with this.

My plan is to re bleed the system, put the new cap on, connect that cut rubber coolant hose. I also had Bryan at PCM4less to turn my fans on at 150. So we will see.

Anyone else have ANY insight????
Old Jun 26, 2003 | 10:01 PM
  #2  
slverbullet's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 710
From: Gulf Breeze, Fl. USA
i'd like an answer on this as well. my 97TA is close to stock and is always running hot as hell when driving in the city. i have a manual fan switch and cant keep it under 210 w/ fans at full speed. i dont think this is normal is it? even at highway speeds i'm constantly running at 200. any help? i am in florida but my friends ls1 never gets up to 230 at idle. if i sit for more than 20 minutes, i'm definitely running at 230. any help guys?
dave
Old Jun 26, 2003 | 10:15 PM
  #3  
shoebox's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 27,730
From: Little Rock, AR
As a short answer, I would get the steam line operating like it should be. The temp sensor for the gauge is in the head and if it is getting steam pockets, that could cause your higher readings. My philosophy is to fix what you know is broke first. Then you can troubleshoot.
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