Ok well, I went out and tested the fuse, it was ok, but I still think its the AIR tube setting off that SES cause its never done this before until that tube busted. Its like I start it up, and its ok, revs a little higher than normal but otherwise ok, then a few seconds into idleing the SES light and fans come on then go back off only to come right back on a few seconds later, so I am just gonna pull the harness to the AIR pump anyway, but I am not exactly sure where it is, I think I see it but not sure if thats it. Is it right above the air pump or underneath it on the right side???

 

ok im gonna make a brief as possible quick rundown of the situation im now currently in. Now remember the hard stumbles and SES lights after injector install and ECM tune going into this for a more rounded idea of whats going on. I once again reseated the fuel injectors again. Took the air inlet elbow off to install my 160 stat, more coolant than expected came out and I don't know if any got on the optispark but I wouldn't be surprised, put the elbow back on plugged everything back in, JB welded the busted A.I.R tube and let it sit for 30 hours. Go to start it up, it still hard starts, it now hesitates a bit at low RPM, there is a bit of vibration from the motor that even shakes the gear shifter a tad bit that I can't remember if it was there before or not and if I try to back out it almost dies then revs back up a bit, has a bit of a power loss that I can notice (not revving that fast) and to top it all off, there is a greyish white smoke coming out of the exhaust and even though I haven't had it up to temp yet, its still scaring me, smells of strong fuel, and I can see condensation in there but it also sorta sounds different, the exhaust that is, I don't know if its a misfire or what, but it doesn't sound normal,there is no oil in the coolant that I can tell, and no coolant loss or oil in the coolant. The SES light comes on at start up with the fans and stays on now the whole time never shutting off. Now thats a brief description insteand of a bunch of choppy threads. I can't get anyone around here to scan the car but with as many changes thats been going on I don't know what the data would be worth even though i want it badly and I haven't the slightest on how to scan the car myself. Any ideas PLEASE?!?!?! Im really starting to worry I have a very bad valve seal leak or valve problem in general or the beggining of a blown head gasket.

 

You need to pull the code for the SES. At least get that part of it resolved, and it may shed some light on the main problem. There's got to be someone nearby with an OBD-I scanner? Have you asked for help on the "regional" forum that covers Ohio? Then there's the last ditch approach if absolutely everything else fails... have a dealer or a local shop scan it. Or even consider buying a scanner.... AutoXray has some low $$$ ones and they can supply an adapter for your 16-pin ALDL connector. Or a cable, laptop and free download of FreeScan or TTS DataMaster.

 

yeah im gonna look into getting it scanned somehow, but in the mean time im gonna replace the coolant temp sensor since I don't even know why I haven't went ahead and at least tried it with as many people that have recommended it. I guess I just couldn't see a coolant sensor causing that kind of problem until I read up on it and seen other peoples threads. Makes alot of since and all my problems point straight at that sensor including the banging around I did with the intake tube yesterday and thats when it got real bad.

 

Well I just found my MAF sensor connector have the yellow wire snipped obviously by accident right where it goes into the connector. Im sure this causes problems but what might this cause, also I think coolant got on my coolant temp sensor when installing the 160 stat. Possibly even the opti, a little more came out than I anticipated considering the car had been off for 2 days at the time. So now step by step once again this is what I have going on with the motor
A) bit of misfire at idle but whats weird here is that it takes about a minute for this to occur, cause at first it sounds normal, then after a minute or so the smoke starts coming out with the misfire
B) car wants to almost die once in gear and trying to move.
C) sputtering under 2 grand when revved and barely wants to go higher than 3 grand.
D) Greyish almost black exhaust smoke that smells heavily of gas
E) SES light coming on seconds after start up with fans coming on with it.
F) slight vibration on motor with very slight ticking sound that you have to get your ear almost right at the motor to be able to hear.
G) Hard starting
H) Idle problems where it wants to idle high then rest every time you rev it or drive and come to a stop.

Im getting a scanner soon and hope to trouble shoot better once I have the codes but as of now thats what I have to go on. My question is now though about the MAF wire. What all could this be causing?? there is no change at all when I unplug the maf. Car still runs the same with the SES light staying on. Whats the Yellow wire for?? And how do I go about either replacing or splicing or what to get it hooked back up??

 

The yellow wire from the MAF is for the signal to the PCM. With that wire "snipped", the PCM will default to speed-density mode. It should run as well as it did with the MAF connected.

 

well I unplugged what I think is the A.I.R pump harness and no change in fans and SES, the fuse is good. Also is it bad for the car to be ran without the maf and in speed density mode??? How do I go about fixing this problem?

 

ummmmmm..... if the yellow wire is disconnected..... you need to reconnect it. You could try and reconnect it to the harness connector that is already there, or you could get a new "pigtail", which includes the connector and short lengths of wire to splice onto your harness. Shoebox has the pigtail part #'s on his website.

It won't hurt to run in speed density for a while.

 

yeah sorry about that, that definatly sounded a bit numb skulled. I already tried reconnecting, and thats exactly what I meant by "fix" it. I meant if there were anyway to reconnect with a new piece such as the piggy back you mention. I'll be looking that up. and while im at it, I want to get the autoxray hardware, and was wondering which specific kit has the 95 16 pin adapter with it??

 

You might want to e-mail or PM Shoebox.... he has a 95, and I believe he has the info on the connector.

 

Well I scanned my TA finally and here's what I got back. The only DTC I got was from the MAF. Which it has the power wire split in two still right now while waiting for my pigtail to get here and isn't even working, but it was a stored code anyway, the weird thing is, I still have an SES light with both fans being on constantly, but there isn't a DTC for it???? The car runs great the couple times I took for a test run recently, the drivability problems seemed to have disappeared for some odd reason. Must have really gotten a lil moisture into the opti and it dried out finally. Anyway, here's the values of the sensors during open loop under a captured live stream, I plan to get closed loop data later today but for now how's this look.....


Desired idle
800 RPM
Engine RPM
800 RPM
coolant temp
122.0 F
Manifold Air temp
81.5 F
A/C pressure
5 PSI
MAP sensor
1.13 volts
Throttle sensor
0.66 Volts
Throttle angle
0%
Battery voltage
13.4 volts
Barometric pressure
4.64 volts
Left o2 sensor
906 mVolts
right o2 sensor
915 mVolts
block learn cell
16
left block learn value
153
right block learn value
154
Left integrator value
128
Right integrator value
128
Left injector pulse
2.8 ms
Injector pulse
2.8 ms
Mass Air flow
471 gr/sec
CCP duty cycle
0.0%
Idle Air mtr pos
49 steps
learned idle pos
37 steps
spark advance
20 degrees
Knock retard
0 degrees
Knock sensor
129
EGR duty cycle
0.0%
vehicle speed
0 mph
engine run time
203 seconds
A/C clutch
disabled
A/C
not requested
Fan number 1
on
fan number 2
on
Air switch
solenoid off
loop status
open
Oxygen sensor
Ready
R rear oxy sensor
Ready
Learn control
disabled

 

Well I cleared the trouble codes a few times, but the history on the scanner continues to show the DTC 48 and when I start the car, it says no trouble codes found. So I guess I'll go ahead and assume the maf wire was breaking apart when it had been stumbling those few times before it actually had the maf disconnected due to the split and the SES and fans stayed on and thats whats causing it now. I know a disconnected Maf should throw an SES with the fans on, but I don't understand why the scanner tells me there are no DTC's currently, its just showing in the history. Once I get my pigtail in and install it, if I've still got SES, then im gonna be needing to see a therapist, because I'll be the one blowing a gasket, forget the car.