That's what I have been referring to.

 

We did it Revolutionarys way last night to my car. We used a different bolt tho so as not to possibly screw up the head of the stock hub bolt.
What do you guys think about putting a small dipple in the center of a spare bolt, so that the nub at the end off the jacking screw on the 3 prong puller fits into it and stays centered. I believe this would help keep equal pressure on all three sides.

 

I use a 3inch 7/16 20 threads per inch and screw it in a couple turns then put a short 5/16 socket on the head of the bolt and the puller bolt will stay center and not turn off and will stay centered and you wont damage the bolt head. I also use a 3 jaw puller and have had no problems.

 

Cliff how's it going buddy i bought the hatch off you.

No i wasn't trying to be defensive, I was just trying to clear things up. Sorry if it came across like that. I just went to day and bought a 30 dollar 3-jaw puller and it won't come off.

Yes if i diden't break off the flange i'd say that wiuld work. But there isn't enough ledge for it to grab on to.

My buddy here who works at A Don Marshel garage or somethin like that is gettin a bearing spereator or a cheese cutter tommarow.

Tryu agine i guess

Brake

 

When you heat with the torch the hub obviously heats up before the crank has a chance to and it will come off. You are not heating it to 2500 degrees, Just hot enough for expansion

 

If you don't get it with the last puller you got, you are gonna end up having to heat it. The heat will not hurt your crank and sounds like your hub is already screwed anyways. I also stripped a 3 jaw puller on a LT1 a year ago and ended up heating it with acetyline torch to remove it. You could also take a side grinder and run it down the sides and half it, heat it a little, then knock it off. That will heat it up also though so better just to heat and pull/bump it.
Or hook one end of it to a truck and the other end chained to another truck and see how...oh,nevermind...
If all that fails I got some good stock LT1 cranks..cheap..

 

I told you these crank Hubs alway bite people in the ****....

 

Yes you did! I like cliff929's idea about the socket over the head of the bolt, to help keep the puller centered.

 

The portion of the crank snout exposed inside the hub is to small for a standard puller's beveled tip to fit into, so use a four inch long (grade 8) 5/16-inch Allen bolt that fits inside the crank threads. The beveled tip of the puller will comfortably sit inside of the head on the Allen bolt.

 

You guys are sure paying a lot of money for your pullers! I paid around $9. for mine at True Value Hardware...it has pulled my crank hub with no problems at all...it even came with a few attachments. So for anyone that reads this post for future references...DO NOT PAY 230 FRIGGIN DOLLARS FOR A DAMN PULLER!