well i went outside checked for arching , sure enough i saw some blue it was the plug on the driver side closes to the maf, does anyone know what plug this is im sure i can find out tommorow, but jus like to know, can i jus buy a replacement wire dont wanna go spending 50 bucks for new wires, I replaced the plugs and wires about 3 months ago,thanks

 

Pretty much a waste of time trying to troubleshoot with all those leaks you know of. Your O2s are past needing replacement, too.

 

#1

 

closest to the MAF basically right behind the coil pack is the #1 plug/cylinder
drivers side plugs go 1,3,5,7 from front of car to the back
passenger side goes 2,4,6,8 from front to back
double check all your other wires also just to be on the afe side!

 

ok , well i guess all change the O2's tommorw and that plug wire Do u all know of anywhere that sells seperate plug wires?............ SO all of the problems that Ive posted is what my problem is? dont think there is anymore do u?

 

om having the exact same problems..plus my passenger side header is leaking...im just pissed and frustrated

 

noone said the pursuit of power was EZ
determination!

 

GM sells individual plug wires.

Also, buy an OBDI cable for $50-90, and scan your car with Freescan. It'll show you the codes.

Did I read that you have an open hole on your header where the EGR tube connects? If so, that will cause a major problem...

 

YEa, i ve got leaks where the air pumps go into top of the headers and the egr plus a arched plug wire .. im in the process of sealing the holes weather permitting

 

How are you gonna seal the EGR hole i have the same problem (Unless your blocking them off altogether)

 

You've posted this problem in a variety of shapes and forms, and in every case the smart people have told you to:

-get it scanned so you know what the SES light is for
-close off all the exhaust leaks.. they totally screw things up
-check the wires, then double check them, then triple check them.

Have you done all of these things?

I would think the cost of a scan would be a lot more logical than a 40HP loss and throwing replacement parts at it in the hope that you can figure it out. JMHO

 

I was wondering if what you said is true, that if you have a header leak the knock module will retard the timimng?

i've had a couple of minor leaks and really didn't notice a lack of power. but then to, i did push her hard when i had the leaks.
just curious
zoso

 

Lilke I said earlier, Thunderracing sells a spark plug wire repair kit.

Oreilly will lend you a diagnostic tool to scan your car (might have a down payment, but you'll get 100% of it back as soon as you return the tool). I did mine there w/ OBD1 and a Generic GM Connector, since I have an OBDII connector on a 95. They had everything I needed.

 

autozone can not read a 94 with there cheep scanner.. you need a high end scanner, a dealer, or a shop to do it...


it;s really common to have problems after headers.. burnt, arcing, or plugs not making good contact.

exhaust leaks


burnt, streached 02 wires. damadges 02's ect also a good idea just to change the 02's when you do headers..


I doubt the exhaust leak will cause knock sensor to pull timing unless it;s really really really loud. but it will suck in air and tell the motor that the mixture is lean and command more fuel causing a rich condition.. and as you know. too much fuel will not make good power.


i just sugest taking a good good look over everything

 

Yea if you didnt seal the hole in the header for the EGR then you will be sucking air in there. Its before the O2 so it will be reading very lean and dump way too much fuel into your motor to compinsate. Thats probably the cause for your SES light, one side of the motor is correct and the other side is reading way too lean but in accuality its running way to rich to make up for the lean reading at the O2. Plug that off and go from there.