? how would that be possible? I'm trying to imagine it...wouldn't something not match up when installing the cam sprocket and the timing chain?

And if that was the case, would the engine still run as perfectly as it did before hand? I mean it started right up and idled perfectly and revved fine until this...

Right now looking in the pan through the hole you can see the rod came off the crank completely and the piston is sitting on the at the bottom of the cylinder. The whole rod is in the bottom of the pan.

 

The rod is in the pan?

I would say that's pretty bad. I'd love to see pictures.

 

yep its down there...somewhere..rather its actually "whole" or not is to be in queston.

I took some pictures of the hole and inside the hole as best as i could. I'll take more when we actually get it out. Hopefully it didn't hurt the block, the crank journal, from the side you can see it looks alright.

 

oohh.... that isn't good.... need pics

 

I'm guessing a loose rocker caused the pushrod to slip through one of the holes in the lifter valley.....then one of the pistons rammed it through the pan. Man, it would have to hit the lifter valley just right to make it down there, but it's possible. Is one of the pushrods on 7 or 8 missing? I don't see anyway for any of the others to get down there(looking at a picture of my lifter valley).

 

Ace...I think the piston rod is in the pan..not the pushrod.

 

yeah its the connecting rod. I have all my pushrods accounted for and my valvetrain looks good as of now... haven't really looked at the valve for that piston #7 yet.

I haven't got the engine out yet, i was tired, pissed off, and disappointed that my first engine build ended like this soo soon. Especially a week before college starts up again. So I went to go lay down and take a nap.

I'm hoping for the best in that only the rod broke and it didn't hurt my crank or block. Either way I have a spare crank that just needs a journal welded and ground back down and a spare block that just needs to be cleaned up and flushed the oil passages.

So at bare minimum i'll be needing bearings, rods, pistons, piston rings. IF my block and crank turn out to be okay...(i really hope they are)

I know what rods i want
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-25700716/
Scat forged with ARP 7/16 bolts
That way I know my rods won't be doing this again to me! *knocks on wood*

But I am sorta clueless on what pistons I should be looking at. I've searched the forum and saw Mogul, JE, SRP mentioned. But I don't need a HIGH performance forged piston. Just good quality piston that isn't pricey and will fit with the rest of my engine specs.
Is speed pro any good? I'll be doing more research on what piston i should be looking at. Would it hurt to get a dish piston and up the compression ratio a bit, or should i just try to keep it where it is at? Again i'm not adding any power adders to this baby, just need it up and running good where it is at now. Just need some opinions

Would this be any good? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRW-8KH860CP/

Oh and another thing I wanted to know is that I'm I going to need to get my whole rotating assembly rebalanced? Or just send in my rods,wrist pins, pistons to get balanced? I'm thinking the whole thing, but i'm not for sure

And yes, I'll be putting pics up shortly once I grab the camera from the garage.

 

Pictures:








you can see the bottom of the piston in this photo...



i'm guessing the rod went through the pan and that's what locked up the engine, my dad turned the engine the opposite way resulting in the rod dropping to the bottom of the pan. When he went to start it (yes i agree that he probably shouldn't have) I don't think it caused any additional damage as the rod was completely off the crank and it was just running horribly because it was WAYYY off balance. That's my theory to that part.

I'll get pictures of the rod once we get it outta there and we can take guess on what actually caused this.

 

Just giving my .02c tear the block down before ordering your parts... start a wish list so you can add what you are going to need... until you see the real damage you won't know what you will need... like I said if the worst happens you may be looking for another short block. If that was the case then you will need the money for that block.

 

yeah that's what i was thinking. but i have a spare short block that just needs to be brought up to specs.

best case: just needs rods and pistons

worst case: crank needs work on, short block is trashed, another complete gasket kit for my other short block, one or two bent valves

But yeah i'm not ordering just yet, just getting an idea in my head what will work with what i got.


Drained the oil, doesn't look like anything tore into the coolant passages as it came out looking like oil is suppose to. Radiator is out of the way along with the AIR pump. next is to get my A/C compressor out, unbolt my exhaust manifolds, and tear the drivers head off to see what it looks like. then pull the other head off and bring that block back out.

Heres a video of what it sounded like when it was running:

http://www.youtube.com/user/mswezey23#p/a

it was put together with care. I don't know what went wrong yet.

I've read a thread about how someones injector stuck open and it blew his rod/piston threw the motor. Maybe that perhaps?

 

Oh, oops,. He started out with pushrods and I made assumptions. Yeah, the other rod hurts much worse.

 

Did you check the out the clearances on the bottom end of the used engine? The way you describe it...sounds like there was absolutely no warning signs at all.

Matt, I'm going to Paypal you back the $55 you paid me for the 1LE elbow. Consider the elbow on me and use the above to pay for parts for your engine.

 

Hmm now that you mention it.. no we didn't
Didn't really pop up in my head to check since it was a used engine and already been broken in and what not. Guess that could be a mistake on my part.

We put new rod bearings in and we checked those with plasti gauge and it was .0015 inches on each bearing well with the specs of .001 - .003. All the bearings we replaced looked to be in good condition, same with all the crank journals.

We turned the engine by hand quite a few times and it never hit on the walls of the block, though we never paid attention to how close it got.

As the back and forth play of the crank, we didn't really check that.

There really was no warning signs of it... I mean it ran perfectly good on my test drive around the block and it would revv up perfectly. it was like the 4th time i went to revv it up and i heard that god awful clunking noise. really loud too. I thought i bent a pushrod or broke one of my RR. turned out to be even more than that And it had good oil pressure through out all of it the revving.

Going to finish pulling the engine pretty soon and get that rod out and see what it looks like.


Wow man...you don't really need to do that..but thank you! That is really, really generous of you and I don't know what to say but thanks a million!!! That really puts a smile on my face and brightened up my day a bunch. Thank you Eric. You're a kind, cool guy

 

You didn't make an assumption... he said there was a "pushrod" through the pan. That's what confused all of us.

 

whoops my bad...fixed lol

got the engine out and oil pan dropped... pic carnage is about to come...