Oh that was a clear explanation, I will go out and do that.
When I do that, maybe my IAC come down.
If the knock retard must be 0*, 2.5* in't too much? is it?
I use 98 octane gas all the time. So if I get 93 octane it will work to test the knock retard movement? question question question .... tnx for patience

 

Don't run 93 octane to test for knock. Can you get any higher octane unleaded gasoline? Unless something is wrong, with 26* at idle and 98 octane, it's most likely false knock. Look over a log of driving your car and see if you're getting knock while driving it also. You want to make sure that it is false knock and get it taken care of before you thrash on the car.

 

Thats 26* is spark advance. Spark retard is 2.8*. Which one should I look at? The two must be 0 ?

 

You want to watch spark retard. That's the one that should be zero. Spark advance will range from 20's to 40's depending on how much timing your tables have.

 

DataMaster indicates you have DTC codes? WHAT ARE THE CODES?

 

okay so my spark advance is normal, but spark retard is the problem. So I'm going to drive it and will look anything will change. I hope it will dissapear. I don't want to believe something is wrong in the engine.

 

Codes are all about the transmission. I swapped from A4 to M6 and didn't connect the skipshift and reverse lock.

 

I just go out and connected my laptop to the PCM. I couldn't get a screenshot while driving But I looked and saw the spark retard is 0.2 - 0.3 , but spark advance was around 30. Anything wrong ?

This Screenshot (at idle)



This Screenshot (at idle after driving)

 

You don't want any knock retard at all. If you have knock, its either "real" and you need to track down the source of the knock, or its "false" and you have to find out what it fooling the system.

You are also running continuously in open loop. Was your PCM tuned to run in open loop? If not, you have to figure out why its not going into closed loop. It appears your O2 sensors are not working. They are stuck at 453 and 448mV. Or the programming is strictly "open loop" and the O2 sensors are not required.

You indicate you are running 98 octane fuel. Where do you live? Are you running in the US? It's important, because if you are in Europe, the pump octane rating is not the same as the US.

Are you sure all the codes are for the tranny, because you should have had a stored code for excessive MAP f it was over 68kPa at idle at any time, and you probably should have codes for the O2 sensors.

 

My PCM is programmed by Madz28. He sent me the OBD1 (conversion), I don't know about open/close loop. Should I be in close loop ?
My car is 97 and I use OBD1 (don't have rear O2s). In the morning there wasn't any codes about O2s, but the last I check the codes yes I saw 2 codes. Left O2 fails, and right O2 fails.

I'm in Europe, and yes our 98 octane fuel is equal to your 95 octane fuel. (something like that).

There is no code for MAP.

How can I find the reason of knock retard. I did a search and found a post from you (no blame no blame ).

OMG!!!
-too much advance in the tune
-carbon buildup raising compression ratio
-hot spots on pistons or head chamber surfaces
-excessive coolant temp
-excessive inlet air temp
-poor quality fuel
-running lean
-plugs too hot

 

I noticed that he was running in open loop also, but I just figured it was supposed to be like that due to the size of that cam (overlap giving a false lean condition).

Back the timing off (retard by a couple of degrees) all the way through the table (0% TPS vs RPM, main spark advance, and ext. spark advance) and see if it is still knocking. If you can't get rid of it that way, I would assume that it is "false knock".

Check the tune that you have and see if the "Temp. for closed loop" (in ECM constants) is turned up really high. That will be an indication of whether or not Ion tuned it for open loop or closed loop. I was having problems with my car getting into closed loop after my A4 to M6 swap because I didn't have the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) hooked up. Just fyi.

 

I will talk with Ion about the loop issue.

Now I'm really worried about "spark retard" issue. At 2500 or higher rpms it almost dissapears. But as injuneer says if it should never appears, I must check this out.
You say, use Tunercat and adjust 0% TPS vs RPM, main spark advance, and ext. spark advance off ???

 

Remember also that the indicated spark advance shows the results AFTER the PCM has deducted the knock retard. In your two DMaster screens above:

25* adv + 1.8* retard = almost 27* advance
24* + 4.2* = 28* adv.

You may find all of the advance comnig from the ignition timing tables, or there may be 3* that you can't find in the program, but may be related to IAT temp.

As I understand it, based on having lived in Italy, the Netherlands and England, the octane quoted on European gas pumps is "research" octane. Research octane is a good measure of knock resistance in "normal" driving, but its not a good measure of knock resistance in "high load" driving. For that, you need to look at "motor" octane. In the US, pumps show the numerical average of the "research" and "motor" octane, = (R+M)/2

Euro 98 is probably close to US 93.

 

I really don't understand tuning and scanning, I will learn for sure. There shouldn't any retard even at idle right? If it is not a false knock, how can I solve this?

I always get Euro 98, oh so 93 huh! You know 1 gallon Euro 98 is ~8$ !

 

You can take timing out of the idle (400, 800, & 1200 rpm) portion of your program with the "0% TPS vs RPM" table. Then, you can take out some timing up to 2000 rpm (I think) with the "main spark advance" table. Finally, you can take timing throughout the rest of the RPM band with the "ext. spark advance" table. Take a few degrees out of EVERY value in these tables and see if the knock retard goes away or gets better. If not, then most likely it's "false knock".