Everytime I got my parts linned up The Engine decides to give me the finger.


I figured before I put in a cam I'd make sure everything was up to par, and the LT1 would be an ideal patient.

But now it seems like the LT1 is on the verge of dying.

I have a mysterious over heating problem that does not seem to go away.

Over the past year or so the LT's been getting hotter and hotter. The average temp has been steadily increasing... to now where it's at 200+ degrees while driving. Lately the car has been running like crap... dispite the plug wire issue. It's more noise now than performance.

So far I've removed the Thermostate completely, I've installed a New Radiator, and new hoses. The system shoots a steady jet of coolant from the bleeder screws, so I assume that the air pockets are no longer.

My only thoughts are that the coolant system isn't cyling as it should be... which might lead to my 2yr old CSI pump.

My stock pump would run hotter than what I would like it to... but it never over heated.

lately I've been thinking about it being the CSI pump. I've noticed that the car heats mostly at higher rpms.. I'm wondering if the Electric pump isn't spinning fast enough to accomodate the higher rpms. with the Stock WP it's cam driven. The faster the engine turns, the faster the WP spins... so flow of the coolant system is matched with my rpms. Since the electric WP only spins at one speed... when my engine is at idle... I assume at that RPM it's able to cool the engine down, because the car isn't generating as much energy as it does at higher rpms... but when I'm driving at higher RPM's the CSI WP isn't spinning fast enough to circulate the coolant as it need be, so I end up over heating. Could this be a reason for the over heating... just a theory.

 

if you have no thermostat then when would the coolant have time to cool down? that why there is a thermostat. if the engine coolant just constantly flows and never stops then when does the radiator have a chance to cool the coolant?

 

I just pulled the thermo off for 15 minutes to solve a problem.

 

Fans?

 

Have you tried getting the cooling system flushed?

 

The T Stat stays closed until the engine water temp reaches the optimum temp for the engine to operate efficiently. If the t stat is stuck open or missing the water merely continues to flow and will not heat up suffficently when first starting up, especially on a cold day.

With no t stat the coolant will just continue to flow, but will heat up eventually. If a t stat is stuck closed the water won't flow at all and the the engine will overheat and sieze up ruining the bottom end.

The fans cool the radiator and the water flowing though it. The fans are programed to coincide with the t-stat rating so that if you have a 180 deg stat and the engine temp goes beyond 180 the fans automatically turn on to bring the temp back to 180. If a 160 deg. stat is installed, the PCM needs to be be reprogramed to turn the fans on when the temp goes beyond 160.

Some people, rather than have the PCM programed, install a manual fan switch.

So if your block is not all clogged up, there are no leaks, the radiator has sufficient coolant, the WP is cirulating the coolant though the unclogged radiator and the fans are operating correctly, then your engine should not be overheating.

Running an engine at high loads for extended periods of time, or idling for long periods of time in extreme heat will cause an engine to run hot since the the standard system can't handle all conditions. JMHO

 

everything under the sun has been done to the coolant system.

I have amnaual switch... and that's the only thing that keeps it cool.


I will say without the T-stat is stays cooler longer...

but the Electric pump is the last culprit.

 

Then you have solved your problem.