I called the comp cams line and the guy was an absolute ***. But he I tol dhim my application and this is what he recommeded, its not the CC 305 or CC 306 that i see most of you guys using on this board. Check this link out this is what he gave me. http://www.powerandperformancenews.c...&Store_Code=CC

What do yall recommend
What i have, 383 Stroker do i need to be more specific about this?
Other minor mods are below Thanks guys. Tell me what ya think. or if ya need more info to recommend anything.

 

That's a great cam for the stock stroke/bore LT1, but I'm not so sure it would be that great for a stroker.

Dan

 

That looks like an over priced Hot-Cam........a Woman cam..........Go BIGGER.

 

I don’t know what heads you have but the 306 is a pretty mild cam with a 383 and a good tune. That cam would be completely anemic. My combo idels at 900 RPM with Zero cam surge, and gets 17 mpg city/some Hwy

 

I called and this is the cam they gave me
http://www.powerandperformancenews.c...&Store_Code=CC

with the beehive setup

 

I had a similar experience with Comp Cams. When I put the CC305 in my '97, I wanted it ground on a 112 LSA instead of the 114 LSA it comes on. The "tech" guy at Comp Cams told me I would have idle problems and I wouldn't have enough vacuum to operate my brakes... When I finished laughing, I ordered the cam with the 112 LSA. After the cc305, I put a GM847 in the car and the car was very driveable and pulled very hard up top. This was a stock headed car, stock bottom end, etc.

Go bigger. A cc306, GM847, and other cams in that area are very driveable in a stroker with a good tune.

 

Generally speaking the "techs" or at least the first level techs are there to move product. I called comp cams after a valve float problem at over 6000 rpm the first level guy said you should be fine and the valves WILL NOT float with the springs i had, second guy on up the ladder said use the behives with these certain retainers and locks require no machining and the valves would for sure float with my old springs. So it is like most things here what one person tells you may not work for everybody. Generally speaking Comp is pretty much right on with advice USUALLY, so my method, call them first then do some searching here and call back if need be.

 

i have the stock Lt1 heads, thats it. Do you think i should go with the 306 or 305. he says i wouldnt get as much from one those as theoone he reccomended. whats tyhe diff. between the 306 and 305

 

cz28s
I see you are TX as well and the 306 will not pass smog Unless of course you grease a palm or two I personally like the 306 but it may be a bit big for an automatic with stock stall. I think the 305 is a good all around cam if you don't plan to do much to the car.

Just my 2 pennies

 

i do not have an automatic

 

The cc305 and cc306 are very different cams. The cc306 is going to make more power and peak higher as well. The CC305 is a nice compromise and will be very streetable.

Sounds like you should do some reading and get a better handle on what duration, lift, LSA, Centerline, etc. are and how they affect how the engine makes power. This will allow you to make a much better decision.

 

whats the beehive setup???

 

They are simply new springs from Comp Cams. They have a gradual spring rate. They look like a beehive, larger diameter on the bottom, smaller on top. Soft on initial valve opening and getting progressively stiffer as the valve opens, if I remember correctly.

Dan

 

The spring rate doesn't change. If you look at the spring rate chart for a 918 spring it shows that for every .050 of lift a increase of 16lbs will correlate with that.

Now phenumatic springs like they use in F1 can have any rate that you need at anytime during the lift curve.

The beehive springs are basically a lighter mass spring, it's like using a Ti valve because the mass of the spring is much less. So you can spin more RPM or have less load on the valve for the same RPM and still control the valve.

As for the cams.....

$350 for a off the shelf cast core Comp cam is steep! (the -8 in the end of the part number gives away that it's a cast core, a billet core will have a -9 in the end of the part number)

A custom billet cam from Lloyd is about the same price and it's matched to your motor. Same company grinds them too. On the other hand Combination Motorsports has cast cams for much less than $350.

Bret

Bret

 

Thanks Bret. I guess I had a different idea of how they worked. They had them showcased on Hotrod TV, and I swore that's how the Comp Cams rep described them. This wouldn't be the first time I've been wrong though.

Must have been the mass that he was talking about.

Dan