i had a post in earlier about the opti/fuel pump. well turns out fuel is fine. so it had to be opti. granted my opti has 3000 miles on it. now i try starting this car thinking i can just let the opti dry out. well it wont start. so i think ok well i unplug the maf, starts right up. . .. ? why? and then i figure ok should run. i hit the gas and it stalls. WTF?! i am losing my mind someone please help me.

 

opti is a major downfall of the LT1, but don't assume it has to be that. Get a scanner and read what your TPS, MAP, coolant, etc sensors read.

 

i dont think its the opti anymore, but i dont understand this. the pdeal is very sluggish. i hit it and it will die. unless i hit it very slowely then it will rev.

 

anyone had this problem? a sluggish pedal? and if u floor it you get no response just a stall? i also noticed some oil residue around the lower opti vent tube, could oil be in the opti?

 

no one has any input on this? has anyone ever heard of a double roller just jumping a tooth? or the opti just jumping out of alignment? if when i did my cam install and i had the dowel just a bit too long would it be fine for a few thousand miles then dump? what is the distributor cap that the autozone people are trying to sell me for 131?

 

As far as the chain is concerned, if tensioned properly it wouldn't jump a tooth. If the cam dowel is too long we know that it kills the internals in short order. If it's too short, although I've never seen it, I guess jumping is possible. We also know that the vent lines are critical in the vented version you have.

The easiest way to tell if the opti jumped is to index any cylinder to TDC. Take off the cap and see if the rotor is pointing in the direction of where the same cylinders contact is in the cap. Of course while you have the cap off, you'll see if anything else might be wrong.

My experience with electrical parts is stick with OEM unless you can find a well known high quality aftermarket. But even that's a risk too. Like sensors, OEM all the way. Don't let a "lifetime warranty" mislead you. Who cares if it's warrantied forever if you have to replace the thing 2, 3 or more times.

My advise to you is rule out an item and move on. Confirm the opti is ok and timed properly then check each cylinder for good strong spark.

 

thanx, i am on my way to get the new distributor cap from auto zone. and a new MAF. theses are brand new plugs and wires with no arcing as i checked them last night in the dark. i hope its just the MAF.

 

i got a brand new MAF today and it didnt help it at all. could this be an injector problem? becuase it will rev so that means the opti isnt toast. but would an injector all of a sudden make the car shut off? i thought that would be the syptoms of an opti failure. and then the fact that the car "dried" for a few days and it now semi runs. what usually goes bad the cap adn rotor or the opti?

 

I doubt its a fuel problem if you can get it to idel fine. Still sounds like a ignition related problem. Have you let it idel for 20 minutes so that it gets upt to normal temp and then tried to drive it/rev?

 

yes, i now cant get it to idle. unless i unplug the MAF, i just got my laptop back so i am gonna gosee if i can get a scan

 

tested fuel pressure with a guage and am reading 5psi at idle and WOT. could this be my problem?

 

You're only getting 5 psi at idle and WOT??? That is a major fuel problem, not an ignition. My car idles around 40 psi and goes around 50 psi at WOT.

 

It sure sounded like a low fuel pressure problem reading your first post and with only 5 psi Id say you definitely have low fuel pressure!

 

so is it a new regulator or pump? the pump seems fine, wines up like its supposed to.

 

I see you have a walbro in your sig, how old is it? Have you ever replaced the regulator?
If your walbro pump is not that old and I am going to assume its not, then I would replace the regulator first.
Fuel pumps are tricky, sometimes they go out all at once and sometimes they slowly die over time. I had an 88 IROC back in the day that would start and run fine but was way down on power, turns out the pump was slowly dieing and putting out less and less pressure.
I really think its your regulator though.