hypertech pp3 need help with shift points
i have a stock 96 z28 with a4, what would be a good set up on the shift points, and the highest rev limit i should go, i want to get the most out of the trans with the shifts, thanks chas
This was posted years ago w/ people actually doing there own testing on the shift points...I use to have the #'s when i owned my 97...maybe one of the older members will chime in here, try to do a search...as far as the rev. limiter i wouldnt go any higher then 6200, any higher could be detrimental...i use to like 6000-6100...my z was fairly stock(bolt ons)..give you a little more powerband then the stock 5800. Good Luck!
Originally posted by Antz97ZNJ
This was posted years ago w/ people actually doing there own testing on the shift points...I use to have the #'s when i owned my 97...maybe one of the older members will chime in here, try to do a search...as far as the rev. limiter i wouldnt go any higher then 6200, any higher could be detrimental...i use to like 6000-6100...my z was fairly stock(bolt ons)..give you a little more powerband then the stock 5800. Good Luck!
This was posted years ago w/ people actually doing there own testing on the shift points...I use to have the #'s when i owned my 97...maybe one of the older members will chime in here, try to do a search...as far as the rev. limiter i wouldnt go any higher then 6200, any higher could be detrimental...i use to like 6000-6100...my z was fairly stock(bolt ons)..give you a little more powerband then the stock 5800. Good Luck!
Originally posted by chasmanz28
i tried a search and didnt find threads that applied to what i need, i have it set at +3 +6 +9 not sure if thats good, i mean i have the programmer and know it doesnt give you that much of a diffrence but i would like to get the most out of it and this is the only sticking point i have
i tried a search and didnt find threads that applied to what i need, i have it set at +3 +6 +9 not sure if thats good, i mean i have the programmer and know it doesnt give you that much of a diffrence but i would like to get the most out of it and this is the only sticking point i have
Basically you start WOT acceleration 20 mph or so below shift point, and time accurately from 10 mph below to 10mph above the shift point area. Driver calls out speeds, copilot times and records data. 2 or 3 runs in opposite directions on the same stretch of road are averaged. Move shift point up and repeat. Your quickest time from the 10 mph (or maybe 20 mph in higher gears) below to 10 mph above gives best shift point for that gear change.
The biggest difference will be in the higher gears. I've never done a 3-4 test in my C5 because it occurs above 145 mph.
My $.02
Originally posted by OldSStroker
You could run a test to determine best shift points. Doing it accurately means two people, a stop watch, a stretch of road where you can run safely to the last shift point, and an hour or so.
Basically you start WOT acceleration 20 mph or so below shift point, and time accurately from 10 mph below to 10mph above the shift point area. Driver calls out speeds, copilot times and records data. 2 or 3 runs in opposite directions on the same stretch of road are averaged. Move shift point up and repeat. Your quickest time from the 10 mph (or maybe 20 mph in higher gears) below to 10 mph above gives best shift point for that gear change.
The biggest difference will be in the higher gears. I've never done a 3-4 test in my C5 because it occurs above 145 mph.
My $.02
You could run a test to determine best shift points. Doing it accurately means two people, a stop watch, a stretch of road where you can run safely to the last shift point, and an hour or so.
Basically you start WOT acceleration 20 mph or so below shift point, and time accurately from 10 mph below to 10mph above the shift point area. Driver calls out speeds, copilot times and records data. 2 or 3 runs in opposite directions on the same stretch of road are averaged. Move shift point up and repeat. Your quickest time from the 10 mph (or maybe 20 mph in higher gears) below to 10 mph above gives best shift point for that gear change.
The biggest difference will be in the higher gears. I've never done a 3-4 test in my C5 because it occurs above 145 mph.
My $.02
Last edited by chasmanz28; May 3, 2003 at 03:04 PM.
Originally posted by chasmanz28
i see what yr saying but i really dont want to do that test, someone has to know or has done that test already and knows where to put the shifts at, thats all i want, so i can programm it and be done with it
i see what yr saying but i really dont want to do that test, someone has to know or has done that test already and knows where to put the shifts at, thats all i want, so i can programm it and be done with it
Originally posted by chasmanz28
i see what yr saying but i really dont want to do that test, someone has to know or has done that test already and knows where to put the shifts at, thats all i want, so i can programm it and be done with it
i see what yr saying but i really dont want to do that test, someone has to know or has done that test already and knows where to put the shifts at, thats all i want, so i can programm it and be done with it
Wide open throttle performance isn't emission or fuel economy related, so maybe they chose optimum points. Betcha they did.
I've found that modifying the shift points on a higher performance LT1 or LS1 only helps if you've helped the power with exhaust, intake and maybe programming. Shift firmness made a bigger difference.
Just my (never humble) opinion.
I tested today with the trans in D as well as shifting manually. I found it shifting a bit low... My car is all stock besides a couple free mods and a CAI, and the manual shifts (by sound and feel) were at 45 for 1 -> 2 and 75 for 2 -> 3
Originally posted by OldSStroker
Chevy did a fair job with the shift points for a stock driveline.
Wide open throttle performance isn't emission or fuel economy related, so maybe they chose optimum points. Betcha they did.
I've found that modifying the shift points on a higher performance LT1 or LS1 only helps if you've helped the power with exhaust, intake and maybe programming. Shift firmness made a bigger difference.
Just my (never humble) opinion.
Chevy did a fair job with the shift points for a stock driveline.
Wide open throttle performance isn't emission or fuel economy related, so maybe they chose optimum points. Betcha they did.
I've found that modifying the shift points on a higher performance LT1 or LS1 only helps if you've helped the power with exhaust, intake and maybe programming. Shift firmness made a bigger difference.
Just my (never humble) opinion.
On my Z, I bumped the rev limiter to 6400 but the MSD 6AL has a 6000 chip. I wanted to kill the spark with the MSD, not shut off the injectors as in stock limiter. I bumped up the shift points on the tranny 1 or 2 mph each and now the car blows a ton of black smoke on 1-2 WOT shifts. I think its touching the rev limiter and getting raw fuel pumped into the exhaust as it shifts but I have a Trans Go shift kit in that gives a pretty hard 1-2 shift.
I'm having issues with the left bank o2 sensor and this may be contributing to the black smoke (or I'm about to blow it up
). Its under warranty until the first week of July.
I've been thinking about going back to the factory shift points to see if this stops the smoke issue. I really didn't feel much difference on accelleration with the higher shift points but I haven't played with it at the track yet.
I agree with OldSStroker in that you need to test with a stop watch or at a test and tune session at a strip.
I'm having issues with the left bank o2 sensor and this may be contributing to the black smoke (or I'm about to blow it up
). Its under warranty until the first week of July.I've been thinking about going back to the factory shift points to see if this stops the smoke issue. I really didn't feel much difference on accelleration with the higher shift points but I haven't played with it at the track yet.
I agree with OldSStroker in that you need to test with a stop watch or at a test and tune session at a strip.
Originally posted by Z28Nut
On my Z, I bumped the rev limiter to 6400 but the MSD 6AL has a 6000 chip. I wanted to kill the spark with the MSD, not shut off the injectors as in stock limiter. I bumped up the shift points on the tranny 1 or 2 mph each and now the car blows a ton of black smoke on 1-2 WOT shifts. I think its touching the rev limiter and getting raw fuel pumped into the exhaust as it shifts but I have a Trans Go shift kit in that gives a pretty hard 1-2 shift.
I'm having issues with the left bank o2 sensor and this may be contributing to the black smoke (or I'm about to blow it up
). Its under warranty until the first week of July.
I've been thinking about going back to the factory shift points to see if this stops the smoke issue. I really didn't feel much difference on accelleration with the higher shift points but I haven't played with it at the track yet.
I agree with OldSStroker in that you need to test with a stop watch or at a test and tune session at a strip.
On my Z, I bumped the rev limiter to 6400 but the MSD 6AL has a 6000 chip. I wanted to kill the spark with the MSD, not shut off the injectors as in stock limiter. I bumped up the shift points on the tranny 1 or 2 mph each and now the car blows a ton of black smoke on 1-2 WOT shifts. I think its touching the rev limiter and getting raw fuel pumped into the exhaust as it shifts but I have a Trans Go shift kit in that gives a pretty hard 1-2 shift.
I'm having issues with the left bank o2 sensor and this may be contributing to the black smoke (or I'm about to blow it up
). Its under warranty until the first week of July.I've been thinking about going back to the factory shift points to see if this stops the smoke issue. I really didn't feel much difference on accelleration with the higher shift points but I haven't played with it at the track yet.
I agree with OldSStroker in that you need to test with a stop watch or at a test and tune session at a strip.
Everybody wants to take the easy way
. What works in someone elses car with their mods may or may not work with your car and mods. The only way to know for sure is to time it stock and then try increasing the shift points and seeing if the time is improved. Hell, isn't that the fun part of modding our cars?
. What works in someone elses car with their mods may or may not work with your car and mods. The only way to know for sure is to time it stock and then try increasing the shift points and seeing if the time is improved. Hell, isn't that the fun part of modding our cars?
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