I have seen a couple of threads regarding make a hub installer using threaded rod, a washer/plate/impact socket, and a nut.

My question is, how strong would the threaded rod have to be? I can only get stainless steel which I was told is equivalent to grade 2 strength. Would this be good enough? I will take care not to bottom out the rod in the crank threads, and will use the longest nut I can find....

This is to install a one piece fluidampr which is keyed.

 

I would get around a 2.5 or 3" grade 8, the gold bolts, with the right threads, and like 4 grade 8 washers, i think they make them, if not, normal ones, and put it on that way. Just take the bolt out of the crank hub and thread it into the crank. Unless those things work completely different which they may, but thats how I did it with my balancer

 

Well disregard my post maybe, i just read it again and you said a one piece keyed hub so that means the balancer is also the crank hub i guess???

 

yep they are installed as one. I am reluctant to use a bolt because I do not want to risk ruining the threads in the crank snout....

Using a threaded rod turned finger tight about 1cm short of bottoming out will minimize stress on the crank threads since the nut on the rod will take the load. I just want to make sure that a stainless steel rod will be strong enough (grade 2 equivalent). I guess the worst case scenario is that i strip the rod at the nut and just throw it away.

 

Good question, they are pretty tight threads, and there is about an inch, I dont see why not, unless you need a 4ft long pipe for leverage to turn the nut I wouldnt forsee a problem doing it your way. Or what you could do is if you can find about a 4", if thats long enough, grade 8 bolt, you could cut the head off and rethread it, i think you can thread even those bolts, maybe not though.

 

Hammer and a 2X4 That is your last resort anyways.

 

Dont hammer on the crank, get a 1/2" longer crank bolt. You can find the thread info here:

http://www.go-fast.org/z28/damper.html

 

Does anyone know the crank snout bolt diameter and thread size? I'd like to get a longer version in advance of my project.

 

7/16-20

 

Thank you, sir.

 

Well the keyed fluidampr slid on about halfway by hand, and it was really easy to use the crank bolt and a spacer to pull it on the rest of the way.

No need to build/use a installer tool.

However a press-fit stock hub might be tougher to get on, making this tool a good idea.