What do you need to do with the 350 already bored 30 over to achieve the horsepower to get into the mid to low 12's consistantly.......keeping in mind i will have the 180 AFR's ported accordingly and find an appropriate intake to match......custom cam will accodomate the heads.....question is really regarding the bottom end......will it hold up or is stroking it a better option?

 

Mid-low 12s is cake. Will take about 350-360 rwhp and all the right suspension/tires/gears.

With a built 355, AFRs, custom cam and all of the above i wouldnt want to be mentioning 12s.

 

HP is not everything. All the HP in the world does you no good if you can't get it to the ground. You should also look into so suspension upgrades. As said 360-380RWHP or so will easily get you into the low 12's with the right suspension.

 

I figured suspension would need to be upgraded......any suggestions for me....also...about the block..if the bottom end is sound.....good port work to my exsisting AFR's and a cam to match should get me where i want to be......and BTW.....guy told me i needed a 550 hp engine to get me where i want to be......guess he is over estimating a little huh?

 

wth?? its going to take 360-380HP to run 12's???

My 5.0L 86 notch runs 12's with alot less power (250 max w/ boltons), the 5.0L 94 runs 12's with HCI.

how much does the 94 z28 weight???

 

you can get into the mid 12's with 300 rwhp....some weight reduction, big gears (4.10's+), slicks, and a ballsy driver and youre there

 

My car runs a 12.73 with 304RWHP @ 105.85mph. Race weight with me in the car is 3750. I might add this is a TPI 3rd gen car but it gives you some idea if you can get the power to the ground.

 

I would agree that mid 12s are possible w/ the hp, but how many broken parts will come out first is the question
I have about 340rwhp and ran a 12.9@109.9 (corrected) but I cant drive for **** (2.17 60' best w/ 12 bolt ) so yes, anything above 300rwhp can get you there, but you gotta drive the crap outta it, no kidding.

 

set the car up to leave hard and the et's will come. ive seen cars run 12.20s at as low as 108mph. 108 in a 3600lb car is around 300rwhp.

 

A mustang, even a GT is MUCH lighter than a LT1, A decetly optioned LT1 4th gen weighs over 3500 pounds with out driver.

 

300-315rwhp, stall converter, sticky tires

 

my hardtop weighs 3430 w/ 1/2 a tank of gas and a spare and jack in it and stock wheels.

my old turbo 93 mustang gt with iron heads weight 3305 w/ the aod, turbo kit, 1/2 tank of gas, no spare or jack and stock wheels weighed 3305.

my buddies 91 lx weighs 2900 but its a coupe, with roll up windows, no a/c, no p/s, draglites, gutted sound deadening, aluminum heads.

my 91 lx hatch weighed 3225 stock.

my 65 mustang coupe weighed 2820 w/ a c4, heavy *** wheels, iron heads and no gutting. those things are light!

 

125 pound difference off their heaviest model, then the LX or notch backs are even lighter.

its all about weight to hp ratio, especially from a role.

 

if my gt woulda been an M5 w/o 50lbs worth of turbo technology street kit, it woulda been within 25lbs of my m5 lx hatch. the lx coupe is about 50lbs lighter then the lx hatch stock.

 

Dyno's are a good indication of power.........not performance.

My old combo made 358 rwhp...but 450 rwtq and ran with minor weight reduction, stock wheels, BFG DR's 11.75@116 mph with 1.65 60'.

330rwhp can get easy mid 12's for most people.