Hp loss with 7' knock retard?
#3
Phew, 20rwhp is a lot to be wasted in such a way...
I pretty sure it's false, the car has just basic bolt-ons, and there was no timing added in my PCM programming...
I've run race gas and the knock counts haven't changed a bit. Besides that I have a poorly fabricated, sh*ts loud cat-back.
Thanks for your input!
I pretty sure it's false, the car has just basic bolt-ons, and there was no timing added in my PCM programming...
I've run race gas and the knock counts haven't changed a bit. Besides that I have a poorly fabricated, sh*ts loud cat-back.
Thanks for your input!
#6
try checking the knock sensor itself
jack the car up, pull the wire harness off, have someone turn the key to the on position without starting the car, you should have +5 volts +/- 10%, if you have the power there, put one side of a ohm meter on the case of the knock sensor and another to the block to see if there is any resistance. if there is, try tightening up the knock sensor. then measure from the middle pin in the knock sensor to ground. You should have anywhere from 3300-4500 ohms (OBD1 sensor, OBD2 sensor is diagnosed the same way but reads around 100,000 ohms). If it's out of that range, replace the knock sensor. but watch out, it is double duty as a plug for the coolant on that side of the block and will unleash a tide of coolant straight into your face if you aren't ready for it!!
good luck.
good luck.
#7
Originally posted by CANTONRACER
With reprogramming you can change the way your car deals with KR. You can have it pull less, faster attack of decay, just get rid of it, or desensitize it some.
With reprogramming you can change the way your car deals with KR. You can have it pull less, faster attack of decay, just get rid of it, or desensitize it some.
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